Don't flatten it in the vice just yet. They are supposed to be square. Over tine, they tend to flatten. Why? I have no idea.
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Don't flatten it in the vice just yet. They are supposed to be square. Over tine, they tend to flatten. Why? I have no idea.
John.
Back in my series days whenever I was bleeding brakes I would wind the brake adjusters so the wheels would lock solid.Always made the job easier.;););););););)
Andrew
I thought about doing that but the service manual states:Quote:
Originally Posted by LandyAndy
"9. Slacken off the brake shoe adjusters on each wheel to minimise wheel cylinder volume".
Makes sense to me in that this would allow the springs to pull the shoes right back so the cylinders are fully retracted and therefore have minimum fluid in them. Several people have told me to do this to minimise the volume of fluid so the air has maximum chance of purging out - even to the extent of removing the wheels and drums and wrapping a ratchet strap around the shoes to hold them in. I'm not confused at all:confused::D.
I need to find something else to do because so far I've only broken the working speedo and the working brakes. Time to find something else to break!:bat::oops2:
My brand new cable which I got from AJ had a flat oval shape on the drive end, close to being flat, but definitely not square. An issue I had was similar to Gav's in that it was popping out of the speedo end after I was fidgeting around the back of the gauges fixing cable ties up. I simply jammed the cable back in and it came good.
I think Johns onto it but I've attached a highly technical drawing (highly technical because I had to use Word and Paint to make the thing) which shows why the flattened oval shape might work and the square shape might not engage. I remember thinking my cable was naffed when I got it as I was expecting a square drive bit but as I had loads of other jobs to sort out it went in and worked.
edit* I suspect a squished flat end is cheaper to manufacture than a precision square drive which would likely need to be cut to shape and attached vs my cable which looked like the metal stands soldered and squashed.
My method was to wind them all locked hard.Bleed from the furthest to master cylinder to closest in that order.Repeat.Now adjust snail cams and repeat bleeding sequence twice.
That was normally enough,on a complete shoe/wheel cylinder job on a SER3,which I belive is what your brakes are I had to repeat the above 2 cycles.The old 2a was always easier,but when they failed with regularatory they all went out in sympathty:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool ::cool:
Andrew
I got all excited with a plausible theory on the speedo repair that I couldn't wait for the weekend and daylight. I donned my head-torch and set to work. Stuee and Brute take the prize ... IT WORKS!!! :banana::banana::banana:. Flattening the end of the cable did the trick. In fact, I might have flattened it a little bit much (although it was hard to tell I'd flattened it at all) because it became a lot more difficult to get right "home" at the drive end. Once it did slip in it worked a treat:cool:.
As a bonus the speedo is rock steady from 0 to 60kph (yes, I opened the gate at the end of the driveway and went around the block for a celebration test:angel:). I think I'll claim that as a professional job of rebuilding the speedo, rather than maybe the cable needed a little more squashing:p.
I'm a happy lad again:).
Maybe I should try bleeding the brakes again while I'm on a roll, but it's dark, getting colder, I have a nice cup of coffee sitting in front of me and there is absolutely NO :no2: chance of getting my wife out to pump the brakes for me while I play about at the drums:D.
I've got a vac bleeder you can borrow. I can stick it in the car and drop it off after work tomorrow if you like?? I can bleed brakes without the wife now :angel:Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBoRover
That would be awesome! Gael will be out tomorrow night so I could try a bleed tomorrow evening then. Gael will be home around 3pm but then going out at 4:30 till about 6:15. You could leave it in the letterbox or just inside the gate unless Gael can remember to leave the gate open for you to drop it at the house. Do you need me to PM you the address or do you still have it?Quote:
Originally Posted by stuee
I've put it in the car and I still have the address. If the gates open Ill take it up to the house, otherwise in the post box or inside the gate, where ever it fits.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBoRover
I rang an LPG installation place today for a chat about getting the 101 LPG installation certified. Not looking good:(. He said they can't certify it unless they installed it and supplied all the parts. He said they have to send away all the receipts and proof of component compliance with Australian Standards to the Energy Office or Dept of Energy or some-such and then they get issued with a compliance plate to attach. He said I'd have to get an engineer to certify it. When asked if he could suggest an engineer that could do that he said he couldn't help - other than to sell me a LPG kit installed.
So I rang the previous owner to get the history of the LPG installation and it was pretty much as I thought. It was installed in the UK but since getting here pretty much everything other than the mixer and tank have been changed for Australian complianced parts. He said he didn't have any issues with getting it checked in Victoria, although it didn't get a RWC as it was just going on Vic Club plates.
So now I'm thinking of just ripping it out. So far it's been far more trouble than it's worth! I fear though that if I rip it out and return for inspection that they'll want to see the LPG installation because it is referred to in the defect list. If the installation was never certified in the first place I see no reason why I can't rip it out - after all it just looked like an air receiver tank for the on board, engine driven, air compressor. I can say I replaced the big tank that the inspector thought was an LPG tank with the small one in the nose now hooked up to the air compressor. I can even demonstrate that the air comp works. Arrrggghhh.