JayBoRovers 101

**JayBoRover** · 10th May 2015, 08:30 PM

Thanks to a couple of words of advice from Ian (Brute) and Stuart (Stuee) I made some good progress on the 101 today.

Ian's tip of jacking the 101 up from the chassis so the rear spring hanger of the front leaf pack swings forward worked a treat

. Thanks for that one Ian

I managed to clean up a lot more of the rusted plate but ran out of light to cut out a cardboard template of a replacement. I should get that done between now and mid Tuesday morning when I'll need it.

Stuu - I guess you mean these springs

:

I had three good condition ones under one of the contact blocks and only one under the other contact block. The other two springs in the bad contact block were broken and many small pieces came out. I decided to put two good springs on the outside long edges of each contact block and cut down a biro pen spring to make up the inside corner of each block. (Not quite what the photo shows here but you can see the good original springs where I've lifted off the contact block).

I cleaned all the contacts in the switch housing and noticed the long arcing contact was broken a few mm before the end. I don't think it really matters because that end is for the military running using the rear diff light and stuff. It doesn't affect the lighting requirements for normal road use anyway.

So everything back together and all the lights work without having to jiggle the switch to make the tail lights come on

. I checked all other lighting, including the reverse light, and all good. I then checked the wipers and washer squirter and all good. Then checked the horn, although it worked last weekend, and the blinking thing barely emitted a squeak!

I measured voltage and was only getting about 1.9VDC. I removed both horns and checked direct at the connectors and got a good 13.2VDC. So I cleaned up the earth point that was being used by the horns when mounted and put them back on and all good and working better than ever. I guess aluminium doesn't make for very good long term earth points Mr Land Rover!

I noticed one rubber boot on a ball joint on the track rod is a bit perished, but there's no movement from the joint. Hopefully they don't get fussy about the boot if the joint is still good. I also noticed a rubber boot around the winch mechanism that was perished and just floating on the actuator shaft. I don't think that should be cause for concern at the pits, although I'll sort out a replacement in time. It's just a dust boot, but that shaft is one of the several points to weep a little oil.

I sprayed truck wash all underneath and then pressure washed everything. Looks reasonable for a 40 year old beast. Here's hoping that Tuesday goes well. Gingin British Car Day, here I come??

**101 Ron** · 11th May 2015, 06:35 AM

Ball joint boots can be purchased from Repco or similar very cheaply.
Post a PIC of the winch boot as I am at a loss about what you are referring too.

**JayBoRover** · 11th May 2015, 08:47 PM

Originally Posted by 101 Ron

Ball joint boots can be purchased from Repco or similar very cheaply.
Post a PIC of the winch boot as I am at a loss about what you are referring too.

It's a bit dark but should be able to take a photo of the winch boot tomorrow.

I found it in the parts catalogue - pages 33 32 and 33 33 for the "Capstan Winch - Drive Unit and Anchor Bracket". It's called "Grommet" with part number "591826". It sits over the "selector shaft" with the "operating lever" pinned to the end. The grommet is an elliptical shape to fit around the "sealing plate" with the shaft sliding through it's centre.

**101 Ron** · 11th May 2015, 09:01 PM

If you are talking about a boot over a shaft of somesort......I never have seen one,most likely because they fall off and disappear ?
I don't have a parts book........you have me thinking now.
I have my 101 out getting the canvass recut so I can't get under it to have a look.

**Brute** · 11th May 2015, 09:08 PM

Mine still has one on. I can't see the inspectors bothering about the pto linkage tho as long as the oil isn't flowing out too fast

**JayBoRover** · 11th May 2015, 11:41 PM

I think the inspectors would be able to pick on other things if they were getting really picky. I noticed one of my hub seals is weeping a bit vigorously. Hopefully the heat of running it for a bit will help, if at least not make it obvious by leaving a trickle down the tyre!

I forgot to ring you today Ian (actually been flat out again, right down to a teleconference from home tonight!

) which is a bugger because I was going to modify my permit to your work address as a stopover in both directions

. As it is I can't remember where you are exactly. The permit starts at 8am so I'll try and ring before that to get an update from you.

**stuee** · 12th May 2015, 02:57 AM

Originally Posted by JayBoRover

I think the inspectors would be able to pick on other things if they were getting really picky. I noticed one of my hub seals is weeping a bit vigorously. Hopefully the heat of running it for a bit will help, if at least not make it obvious by leaving a trickle down the tyre!

I forgot to ring you today Ian (actually been flat out again, right down to a teleconference from home tonight!

) which is a bugger because I was going to modify my permit to your work address as a stopover in both directions

. As it is I can't remember where you are exactly. The permit starts at 8am so I'll try and ring before that to get an update from you.

In case your up early I sent you a PM with his workshop address. I mentioned that my hub seals weaped in the PM but it was actually my swivel seals I had issues with. I have spare hub and swivel seals at home you can borrow if you need some quickly for a re-test. Let me know and I can throw them in my car and drop them off after or before work one day.

edit* also good thinking on the biro springs! Thats a great tip for anyone rebuilding the switch in the future.

**Sitec** · 12th May 2015, 06:23 PM

A pressure pack of Braklean and a few rags are your friends just before the pits!!

**Homestar** · 12th May 2015, 06:35 PM

The roadworthy inspector I have used for a while now has a good philosophy on oil leaks. From the time he drives it in to do the RW to the time he takes it out, it can't drop any oil in his workshop and it will pass almost regardless of what it looks like underneath, but a good clean just before the inspection is always best.

**stuee** · 12th May 2015, 07:08 PM

So how did it go?!

Thread: JayBoRovers 101

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