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Thread: Steering box 101

  1. #31
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
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    I may have some time up my sleeve in the next couple of weeks, I might go on the scrounge and see what I can find that might be close.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  2. #32
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    Cleaned most the mud off today and pulled the floor up to take a pic to show the damage. Will have a go at pulling it out next weekend. Just need the pitman arm to co-operate.
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  3. #33
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    Looks like some sort of corrosion or reaction between the steering box housing the bolt that holds it.( the length wise crack where the bolt goes)
    The pitman arm has Two small lugs on it to help a puller to grip onto it.
    Use heat to crack the taper on the pitman arm as the steering box seal is only a O ring so there is very little to hurt with the heat.
    Once the pitman arm is off and steering wheel removed the steering box drops straight down and out , don't even need to remove that floor plate.
    Ron

  4. #34
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    Feeling a little bit chuffed with myself today. My MAP gun has been out of gas for a while so I used some other tools I purchased along the way (i.e. welder and 14mm thread tap) to make myself a stubby pitman arm puller to fit the 101. Got the box out and will now proceed to look at it for the next few weeks and perhaps pick it up occasionally, think about draining the oil and maybe even measuring it

    If any 101ers in Perth need to remove their pitman arms they are more than welcome to borrow my diy puller. Hopefully it can get more than one use.
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  5. #35
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    Pulled my box down today. The small bearing that supports the top of the column was fubar and had dropped its contents into the box but no apparent damage. This was the state of my box when I cracked it open, I didn't bother draining the oil out first:



    After stripping it down most components are in good condition, the bottom bearing race is a little pitted, although new ones can be gotten at a reasonable price.

    I also found some useful information on bearing options for the box on the club forum.

    101 club • Login
    numbers from the page 31 38 off the parts catalogue.
    -number 10 change by a bronze bush.
    -number 8+9 change by a taper roller bearing 25-47-15mm, SKF number 32005X (number 3 must be ground and a intermediate
    steel bush must be fitted)
    -number 7+9 change by a taper roller bearing 15-42-14,25 mm, SKF number 30302 (number 3 must be ground)
    -the original bronze bush in the housing (1) is only the half length, it change in a full length bronze bush, to receive number 11.
    this bush is in 2 parts and a little hole in the housing 1 allows the oil to arrive to the outer bush.
    -the O-ring 12 change to an oil seal.
    Of course the housing must be machined to receive the bearings and the oil seal.
    More here:
    101FC steering box upgrade

    As I'm attempting to make a new housing its not a big deal making it to the right size for the new bearings but I'm in two minds about grinding down the steering column to accept them. If the new housing is a disaster I can attempt to get the original welded up, but modifying the column would mean I cant go back to this option.

    In the mean time I'm going to keep measuring the old box up, see what other bearing options may be available, and find some suitable bushings.

  6. #36
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    I haven't done too much with my new box, I'm close to finalising the design, picked the components that I want to use, all relatively easy to obtain off the shelf with the exception of the needle roller bearing (NK22/20TN) I will be using to support the very top of the inner column (the one up at the steering wheel) which needs to come from over east, or because it was easier and slightly cheaper, the UK via RS components.

    The mods to the inner column will involve cutting down the upper bearing support and upper steering column to 22mm. A tapered roller bearing will be used for the upper bearing (320/22JR or 320/22X). The lower bearing support will be cut down to 15mm for another tapered bearing (30302 J2 - although since I bought it I cant see it in the SKF catalogue, but there is an equivalent NSK).

    I'll use bronze bushes (FB 901) cut down to 1.5" long (one inserted from either side) with oil grooves cut out for the rocker shaft and the seal is a double lip press in seal - cost all of $4.40.

    The outer column will get some slight tickling to fit the needle roller bearing and to make sure it clears the upper tapered roller bearing.

    Ill run all this past my mate when I get a chance to see how viable it is, then will chase down a lump of steel to machine out.

    I've attached a screenshot of the model, I had to crudely draw the rocker shaft and ball nut to make sure the clearances were ok. It's a good thing I did as I had to slightly tweak the position of the inner column, one of my initial measurements wasn't so flash.

    At the moment I see the main problem as juggling time, it's taken me this long just to have the thing drawn up so don't know how long it will take to build the thing. I'd like to have it back on the road as the weather starts cooling again but we'll see.

    edit* the model doesn't show an oil drain - I stole that idea from 101Ron.

    edit2* I found another crack on one of the other mounting points when measuring up. As has been suggested it may be the bolts used were reacting with the aluminium?? or the box is a dodgy casting?? Either way I'm happy not to use it again. Also estiamted weight for the new box (without everything in it) will be around 7.2kg! There is the option of machining off more to save weight but I don't think that will be an issue on the 101.
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  7. #37
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    Those with a 101 will be all to aware of the weak steering box. This long winded You Tube vid goes to show what can happen when and where you least want it to happen. Often it is the ball bearings in the steering column that cause issues but in this case it seems the outer case of the steering box itself failed.

    YouTube

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  8. #38
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
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    Nice setup he has, glad I don’t need to worry about that issue any more.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  9. #39
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    101 Power Steering

    I will piggy back on this thread rather than start a new one.

    There are a few options to put power steering on a 101. In the Uk you can use the Sherpa box, the RR Classic 4 bolt box or a disco box but this one requires cutting the chassis. Here we have the Anthony Johnson option using a bevel box and a Nissan box to replace the steering relay. All these work quite well but do require a bit of modification etc.

    When I was a member of the 101 Club they also discussed ram style power steering but was generally discounted - I think due to lag.

    Like many other people, I go on other forums and one is for Mogs, Pinzgauers and Volvo 303s etc. The Volvo has a suspension and steering system basically the same as the 101 and the have fitted electric steering kits but also fitting a ram power steering system as fitted to the 60s and 70s Chev Corvette. The Volvo guys say it is easy to install with no complex welding and works really well. It also retains the original steering system without modification as the ram is fitted to either the track rod or drag link (not sure).

    So any one considered a ram type power steering system for their 101 or even series landies - if so what were the pros and cons?

    Thanks

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #40
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
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    Considered a ram style system at one point but the cost and poor reports of leaking and lag, etc put me off, so I ended up putting a Nissan Navara PS box in mine, with modified series 3 steering column through a bevel box at the end. The Navara pitman arm picks up the drag link in the same spot the bottom arm on the relay normally does and the best part is I could convert it back to standard manual steering in just a couple of hours if needed but having used it now with the power steering, I won’t be going back, but all the bits are on a shelf if ever needed.

    All engineered too, along with the disk brake conversion.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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