Just going through the joys of trying to replace the throttle cable in my 101. I did it about 9 years ago and had nightmares for a while after trying to sort the cable to the pedal. I think I gave up and did it when I had the booster and pedal box out.
Any way my piggy little arthritic fingers are doing it tough and I still have not worked out how to undo nuts or remove split pins with a mirror and light.
Looking at it I cannot see any reason to get a couple of longer cables made and make up a new throttle pedal an mount in the clear space to the right of the brake pedal.
So has anyone made up a new accelerator pedal and bracket (or used one from another vehicle) so the cable runs to the right of the brake pedal rather than down between the clutch and brake pedal and behind the brake booster where it is impossible to get at.
I cannot believe the designers went the way they did when there is free space just above the current pedal.
Thanks
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I guess none of you 101 owners have had to replace the accelerator cable - when you have to do it you will understand the issue.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Hi Garry,
I think that Sitec had to replace one - and have a vague memory that it is a pig of a job.
I've never had to do it - thank goodness.
Cheers,
GG.
54 Series 1 86
61 Series 2 109 - Club Rego
76 2 Door Range Rover
78 101 Forward Control - Club Rego
88 Perentie FFR - Club Rego
90 4 Door Range Rover - Club Rego
93 Discovery 1 200 Tdi - Club Rego
98 Freelander 1 - Full Rego
22 Defedner 90 - Full rego
They so have a bit of a history in breaking so i always carried a spare - again stupid Brit way of designing things - the pedal is part of the brake and clutch pedal arrangement where there is room to have a stand alone item next to the brake pedal and bolted direct to the nose cone. All the bits and pieces are up behind the brake booster and almost impossible to get to without removing the booster and master cylinder.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Yes, I've had my cable break and it is a PITA to do - When I put it back together I couldn't get the split pin in so left it out, only to have the main pin fall out a few months later while towing my van up a narrow winding road...
I got the pin back in and got home, then spent some time getting it sorted properly.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
After 10 years of owner ship I know my 101 is due for a new accelerator cable.
It is starting to give out just near the carbies.
I will be going though this learning/ swearing process soon.
It took me about 2 hours to get the split pin out - a real pain.
Putting it back together I was going to use a small R clip but I haven't been able to find one small enough locally so I used a safety pin which went in less than 5 minutes. I cannot get the bolt tight that hold the cable in place on its mounting bracket.
I do have a job to do next year that requires the master cylinders and brake booster out (replace with a D1 dual booster) so I might build a new pedal arrangement then.
For now it works but I am not a happy chappy.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
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