Well, It's not 2 or 3.
I always thought it was a 24v coil but there is a little box of electrical wizardry in series.
I'll have to look at the wiring diagram.
I'm just trying to update my knowledge on the 101.
IIRC the radio and electronic warfare versions of the 101 still have a 12v ignition system.
Can someone explain how this is achieved?
- Is it via a 24V to 12V ballast resister
- a tap off only one battery (with a relay)
- a DC to DC power supply
- something else
Well, It's not 2 or 3.
I always thought it was a 24v coil but there is a little box of electrical wizardry in series.
I'll have to look at the wiring diagram.
I remember working on the fuel tank sender on the ex-RTC 101 at the Engineers Museum. The new sender was a standard 12V one so somewhere in the system there is a 24v -> 12V drop. But I am only assuming that it also included the ignition but may have just been the gauges.
I've just bought a fuel thank sender. It has 24V on the box.
The sender is voltage independent anyway. It's the resistance that is important. It's got to match the resistance of the gauge. The 12v 101s have a voltage regulator on the instruments (10v I believe) but the 24v 101s do not.
Yes the ignition on all 101s is 12v (well actually about 10v) - on the 24v volt versions like our GS models - next to the coil there is a box about 3" x 3" and inside is some hi resistance wiring that drops the voltage form 24v to 12v. The voltage needs to be read with the coil in the circuit - if you measure the voltage just across the resistance unit it does not read 12v but something higher but with the coil (not resistor type) in the circuit the voltage is about 10v. If you covert the ignition to 12v you need to use a resistor coil or a ballast resistor to get the correct voltage.
This is the box.
P9260029.jpg
The fuel pump is also 12v with a dropper also located on top of the tank (so RRC pumps can be used). I thought the fuel sender is 24v though that is why Series 3 instruments cannot be used.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Good thing you can use a 12V fuel pump. I recently had to purchase a 24V round Facet Gold Flo and it cost over $400.
Without checking I thought the fuel pump was 12 volt and the voltage dropper was hidden in the space under the spare wheel.
My 101 has-been converted to 12 volt and the 24 volt stuff removed.
Most 24 volt suppressed British ignition systems run 12 volt coils though a voltage reducer, the reason is to reduce the capacitance effect of suspressed high tension leads which even with 24/12 volt and points produces a feeble yellow spark at the plugs.
If it was a full 24 volt system you would be lucky to get enough spark to run the engine properly.
I could have sworn that is not correct but the more I think about it I think you are correct. What I am getting confused with is that the one one pump fits both 24v and 12v vehicles as the one pump can work on both voltages. I discussed this with AJ a couple of years back as the one he sent to me at the time was a 12v unit and I questioned whether it was suitable.
In the parts handbook it lists different fuel gauge senders for 12v and 24v (different part numbers) however there is only one part number for the fuel pump for both vehicles - 589322* (the * indicates the part is not unique to the 101) and is for use on both 12v and 24v vehicles.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Supports more the theory a voltage dropper is under the spare wheel ?
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