9.00 16 Tyres

Those biters on your Simex's will get you out of most sloppy conditions. In Canberra the Simexs were within a few $$ of the BFGs.

I got some 100mm wide rubber strip from Clark Rubber today and will put that on the rear wheel arch do keep things legal - later I will look at moving the mudflaps out a little as well.

I think you will need to put your hernia belt on it you are going to try and lift your spare up into the spare wheel slot with those Simex's on. Mine weigh 46kgs and it is hard enough lifting them onto the wheel hubs let alone up behind the drivers seat.

Garry

The simex are very light and so is the wheels....no problems lifting .
may be a big problem fitting the spare into the spot behind the seat room wise.
My back mud guard flares I purchased 4 inch wide renforced rubber and I had to cut it lenght wise so it was the same width as the front aussie army items.
The front Army ones are screw threaded into place with bent 20mm wide alloy flat strip.
I purchased this but never used it.
I purchased 1/4 UNF stainless cap head screws and drilled and tapped the standard rear wheel well where possible.
On the flat area directly above the centre of the wheel I pop riveted 20 x 20 mm alloy angle to give me a flat surface to drill and tap into to support the rubber.
The alloy angle was sealed against the body work with neutral cure silastic.
Under the heads of the screws I used oversize stainless mud guard washers.
I found they provided enough support without going to go to the trouble to bend flat alloy to the shape of the guard with the rubber fitted.
Note do not use alloy angle more than 20x20 mm or the mud which will get caught behind/above it and can not get out.
Also I didnt run it full lenght because of the same.
Approx lenght of rubber used per side was 1.5 meters.

In this pic you can just see the bottoms of the UNF screws tapped though in a line running to the bottom of the tool box.
Note the pop rivet heads showing at the top of the guard holding the alloy angle.
The front edge of the guard was done similer to the rear.
Note in this pic I had not fitted the oversize stainless washers
With the washers fitted it was better supported and it works good.
The rear mud flap could really need to line up with the tyre better, but because of the jerry can holders which is the widest part of the vehicle it is not very noticeable.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/03/133.jpg

I trimed the rubber exactly like the front.
The above pic was a trial fitting.

Great minds think alike - that is exactly how I am doing mine - instead of big washers I an using alumium strip like the fronts and mine will all be pop riveted on.

Garry

The reason I didnt use the strip is difficulty in getting the correct shape and getting the screw holes to line up etc.
You will find the problem when you go to do it.
It is very hard to allow for thickness of the rubber when fitted when bending to get the shape.
I forgot, I also used a short bit of 20/20 mm angle for the rubber directly below the tool box, you can just see the pop rivets for that too.

I went for a drive today.
I ran into some Suzuki boys today and some people who I have bumped into before.
I found the Zook boys are heavy into Simex centipedes and three of them were running centipedes in 32inch.
One bloke is running his second set and said he got 50,000 k from his first set.
It was interesting in what pressures they run too.
They go down to 6psi and winge that they come off at 4 psi.
I ran 18 psi and feel to get the tyres to really mold to the rocks and bag and grip I would need to go much lower.
In fact I ran home on 18psi with no effect the the tyres at highway speeds.
These Zook boys were fairly well set up and full on and the Zooks are a good bit of kit at low cost.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/063.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2012/03/21.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2012/03/22.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2012/03/17.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2012/03/18.jpg


Note the tyres on the red Zook.....simex centipedes worn to the wear indicators.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2012/03/19.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2012/03/20.jpg

I am not going to sling off about towing a Zook as it screwed a rear tail shaft and I was very happy to help out as the bloke who owned it has towed/winched my 101 in the past.

Zooks are a great vehicle - I had a 1.3 long wheel base 25years ago and they are virtually unstoppable. They are very light so any tyre normally lasts a long time on them.

Those Simexs on your 101 don't look at that big - suit it quite well - I assume they went well on your trip.

Tyre pressures are always contentious - I think what you have done in lowering your pressures is the way to go - most larger tyres wear in the centre because pressures are too high - my MRFs wore evenly an I put about 30psi in them on road only only dropped lower offroad if sand or in the slop.

The BFGs I have, have got 40psi in them from the fitter but I will drop them to 30psi and see how they go.

I might take a short run up to Mt Coree tomorrow to see how they go but there will not be too difficult - just a bit of loose rock - the mud hole where I damaged the bumper is nearby - will be tempting.

Garry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by garrycol

[snip]

Tyre pressures are always contentious - I think what you have done in lowering your pressures is the way to go - most larger tyres wear in the centre because pressures are too high - my MRFs wore evenly an I put about 30psi in them on road only only dropped lower offroad if sand or in the slop.

[snip]

Garry

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Very true Gary, you can only experiment and see what works for your vehicle, the tyres and the way you drive.


I used to run much lower highway pressures with my old BFG MT's in 255/85's compared to everyone else with my 130.