101 Axles

Garrycol.....
My 101 is running a rear locker which I fitted.
The axles are 22 spline from memory and the axle diameter and drive flanges are much larger than any other rover.
The front cvs are special extra large too.
The only 101 I know of which broke a axle was running 20 inch Unimog wheel with oversize rubber.
The weak point is the the diff centres.
The 101 drivers book states the keep throttle setts low when using 1st and 2nd gears low range for this reason as the 78 to 1 low, low can produce a lot of torque.
Mac maccmara only made 10 diff locks for export and none others are advailable.
My machine is running a Detriot solf locker and I am very ,very pleased with it.
The constant 4wd means the front diff is driving too,so there are none of the draw backs of auto lockers and the camming of the solf locker is brillant too.
Auto lockers can not be fitted in the front .
I have worked out a way to fit a ARB air locker in a 101 with extra machining, so I am looking to do this to the front diff..........money stopping me at this time.
The locker in the rear made a terrific improvement off road as the the 1.5 tonne pay load of the 101 means it is no flex king.
My 101 plays with at the modern locked and lifted 4wds now.
In a nut shell the axles on the 101 is very good stuff and dont worry about then in any sort of use.
The very large axles mean fitting of a locker is harder.
Regards Ron

Not much I can say here

I think your right Ron 22 spline seems to come to mind. Anthony Johnson had the Macnamara Lockers made up in a special run.

Your right the diffs are 5.7:1 which makes them a different prospect for lockers. I wouldn't be worried about the axles but the swivel hubs can be a problem as they are welded to the front housing you have to take extra special care to keep them lubricated (I won't say how as I don't want to enter the grease/oil debate). If they start to wear you will have to get the housing rebuilt.

Oh there is no way to look graceful as you exit a 101 accept it as everyone else is not looking at you their looking at the truck.:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 101 Ron

Garrycol.....
My machine is running a Detriot solf locker and I am very ,very pleased with it.
The constant 4wd means the front diff is driving too,so there are none of the draw backs of auto lockers and the camming of the solf locker is brillant too.
Auto lockers can not be fitted in the front .
I have worked out a way to fit a ARB air locker in a 101 with extra machining, so I am looking to do this to the front diff..........money stopping me at this time.

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Thanks Ron - a rear locker is high on the list to get fitted after the truck is back on the road. Let me know how you go with the front ARB if you ever do it.

Cheers

Garry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Slugbait

I wouldn't be worried about the axles but the swivel hubs can be a problem as they are welded to the front housing you have to take extra special care to keep them lubricated (I won't say how as I don't want to enter the grease/oil debate).

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The swivel hubs were something I had identified as needing particular care in view of them being welded to the axle. I also have followed threads on the the topic of grease/oil. In all of my previous landies (except for the Freelander) I have always used a mix of oil and grease to have a bet either way - seems to have worked. Mine are weeping but not leaking but then I haven't checked them yet.

Thanks

Garry

Most 4 wheel drives with CV joints have the ball as part of the axle.
I cannot see a Landrover with the normal set up being any worse that a early toyota or nissan.
My 101 leaks slightly and its no big deal.
A hard high speed run will cause it most.
Luckly I have spare CV joint seals too.
As I type this I am looking at a 5 tonne 65 year old Studebaker 6x6 truck with the CV joint ball one piece wirh the axles .......No problems and no leaks.
The original Jeep is this way too.
Having a replaceable CV joint ball is better and I think the issuse is over in Europe where they salt the roads and corrosion pitts the balls it is the duck guts.
A bit of sandpaper to polish up the CV joint balls here in Aussie land seems to work well.
THe quality and type of ball seal has a great effect on leaks.
I know on a worn WW2 Jeep CVs and cheap Indian rubber seal is a waste of time and needs the CV joint to be disassembled to fit.........or find some WW2 leather items which are two piece and fitted in place and no more problems

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 101 Ron

Most 4 wheel drives with CV joints have the ball as part of the axle.
I cannot see a Landrover with the normal set up being any worse that a early toyota or nissan.
My 101 leaks slightly and its no big deal.
A hard high speed run will cause it most.
Luckly I have spare CV joint seals too.
As I type this I am looking at a 5 tonne 65 year old Studebaker 6x6 truck with the CV joint ball one piece wirh the axles .......No problems and no leaks.
The original Jeep is this way too.
Having a replaceable CV joint ball is better and I think the issuse is over in Europe where they salt the roads and corrosion pitts the balls it is the duck guts.
A bit of sandpaper to polish up the CV joint balls here in Aussie land seems to work well.
THe quality and type of ball seal has a great effect on leaks.
I know on a worn WW2 Jeep CVs and cheap Indian rubber seal is a waste of time and needs the CV joint to be disassembled to fit.........or find some WW2 leather items which are two piece and fitted in place and no more problems

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Ron

I have seen ordinary Land Rover ones which have a split in the seal which you fit at the top where they never leak.

Diana