Why do you need one of them? Is that why your speedo reads a little off?? Didn't say you converted your diffs back to original ratios?Quote:
Originally Posted by 101 Ron
Garry
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Why do you need one of them? Is that why your speedo reads a little off?? Didn't say you converted your diffs back to original ratios?Quote:
Originally Posted by 101 Ron
Garry
Remember my dash board is non standard and is running a VDO speedo.
That little gearbox on the speedo drive made speed correction with 4.7 diffs easy.
It may one day come in handy for the 20 inch mog wheels ????.
The VDO speedo most likely would run a different ratio to read out than the original rover item.
I am going with Defender 130 1994 standard suspension height shockers for the rear of the 101.
It looks like they will set me back about $250 each.
These shockers will be adjustable KONIs.
I curently have these shockers on the Defender and I like them very much.
Time will tell how they work on a 101.
The top rubber bush will have to be moded to fit.
The plan is if it doesnt work out I can keep them as spares for the Defender.
Ron
Ron - that is lots of dollars for the shockies on a vehicle that probably drives just as well without any rear shockies at all.
Garry
I had a oil leak from both the rear diff pinion oil seal and transfercase rear out put seal with oil going though the parking brake.
I got the parts and decided to have a crack at it to day.
Everything is straight forward to do.
it is interesting to note the transfercase seal was leaking because the nut which holds the drive flange had come loose.
It is a corse pitch thread and it must be a common problem.
When doing seals on a older vehicle I try to use speedi seleeves when possible if the seal running surface is worn or not as it tightens up the new seal abit more and makes the seal work better and for longer as old vehicles tend to have more play in shafts and splines ect.
Rear diff pinion drive flange speedi seleeve P/N is 99175
Rear diff pinion oil seal P/N is AAV 3381( I used a landrover item as it seals and fits better in the housing of the salisbury than after market )
Transfercase rear drive flange speedi seleeve P/N is 99187 ( It has to be trimed a bit in with after fitting)
Transfercase rear flange seal P/N is (Bearmach) 9062240.
I always fit the drive flange over the splines with loctite and the retaining nuts even if it means using a puller to remove them next time, as drive flange with doenst move on the splines it doesnt wear.
I on the 101 treat the tailshaft bolts as one use throw away as the tailshafts on the 101 with the 5.57 to 1 diffs at highway speeds is at maximum stress.
I use and cut to lenght grade 8 replacements with new Nylocs and spring washers with loctite thrown in too.
Everytime I work on the 101 i just keep thinking how silly the poms were in not developing the 101 for civie market.....It is a great vehicle for its intended role and easy to work on with tuff as nails construction.
Shades of the super sonic harrier and the 4 wd Mini moke etc
Ron
My 101 has been suffering.
I am short on funds and time .
Most of my personal vehicle maintance efforts have been going to the alvis stalwart.
The canvas got spiked on a trip to the farm in the rain forest, the brakes have given out etc.
The canvas got repaired by a local bloke and a patch was done as well as new eyelets on the side where I access the fridge in the back with new shock cord.
While the canvas was off I though I would try and prolong the life of it.
I have tried a few spray on water proofing compounds in the past......expensive and I dont know if it was effective.
I now am trying this
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/712.jpg
It brushes or rolls on as a thick paste.........something like across between KY Gel and PVA wood glue.
I dries clear.
Time will tell if it works.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/713.jpg
4 litres cost 60 dollars
With my brakes I found the master cylinder leaking down the front of the booster and the RHS front wheel cylinders leaking.
So I am up for shoes, wheel cylinders and a master cylinder kit.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/07/1415.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/07/1416.jpg
I also need to change my gas convertor for a better one I now have waiting and install a transfercase offset washer kit to try and stop it jumping out of high range every now and then.
Poor 101,
My hood is in getting four rips repaired and some other work done. Then guy said the canvas was starting to go as it was no longer stiff - it has faded a lot due to the sun. While it is still waterproof, I think I will use something like you have got on mine - might also protect it a bit from sun damage.
The UK 101 people will say that due to a lack of parts you cannot rebuild 101 masters and need a modified series 3 one but I just put mine into the local brake place and it was back the following day and it has worked fine. So parts must be available.
Garry
You can get the kits from the 101 club.
I heard all the seals were readily available except one.