The speedi sleeve part number for the drive flanges is
SKF 99187......about $30 dollars a throw
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The speedi sleeve part number for the drive flanges is
SKF 99187......about $30 dollars a throw
Starting dismantling the gearbox. Mostly it is in good condition. All the seals have the flexibility of a piece of aluminum, certainly not rubber.
Found the oil leaking from the bell housing problem, the oil pump housing bolts were finger tight.
The main pinion bearing has a lot flex in it so I think the lack of oil in the box overall and no/low oil pressure to the main bearing is my main problem.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/11/136.jpg
Found metal fillings in the bell housing, I think it is from the hole cut in the top of the bell housing.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/11/137.jpg
I have thought long and hard as to why someone would cut a hole in the bell housing. All I can come up with is same dumbo that cut the side gates had another bright idea. Perhaps to boodgy the thrust bearing clip with a bit of lock wire.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/11/138.jpg
The only other damage I can find other seals and bearings is the CDL locking mechanism on the diff end. I don't think it will be a problem as the shifted lock gear sit on this all the time, makes me wonder how it happened though.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/11/139.jpg
The front output shaft bearing seems pretty flogged so I think the front drive shaft has taken its toll. This would not be too hard to change with it in the vehicle if you had to.
So now I all need to do is build up the courage to change the main gearbox bearings myself.:eek:
All this months pics are here - LR101FC - Progress November 2009
Peter
Got a cheap RR box to practice on. The high range gears are 31 and 48 tooth, I am sure this makes it 1.113:1. Standard 101 is 32 and 47 tooth. I believe the .996 is 26 and 45 tooth. I am keen to try the .996. I'm told the only RR with that ratio are ones with high compression engines.
Also found the oil pump shaft was sheered off, looks like it had been this way for a while, overall the box looks in reasonable condition.
Another interesting difference is the RR has a narrow gate shift selectors. To make it work in the 101 you would have to file another flat on the end the lower gear lever #622301.
Any thoughts if a narrow gate shift would be an advantage or disadvantage with the 101 remote change?
Standard 101 wide gate selectors
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/12/1145.jpg
Range Rover narrow gate selectors
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/12/1146.jpg
Peter
Not of any help, but any chance of some pics of the 101 itself?:)
I have driven a 101 with a R380 gearbox in it and once you got use to the very short throws of the gear change it was OK.
It was more like giving the gear stick a bump forwards or backwards , than the standard shift action of a deliberate arm movement.
Thanks for the input Ron. I was thinking of drilling the bottom section of the RR gear shift to take the original shift lever #622300 to try it, I can always change the selectors to the original 101 if its a problem.
Rovercare, this is Can Do'a website - Can Do's and 101 Web Site
Best pic since I have owned it - https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/12/657.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/12/1116.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/12/1117.jpg
Cheers,
Peter
The noise if from the rear mainshaft bearing. See on the mainshaft blueing on the LHS where the rear bearing sits. There is a matching heat mark on the inner ring of the rear mainshaft bearing. All make sense now.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/12/716.jpg
And now the real reason for this post. - "What colour is the LT95 in the 101 standard?" I suspect it is straight alloy and not blushing red like mine.;)
I am spending some money on paint stripper.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/12/717.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/12/718.jpg
Peter
Re gearbox colour Every LT95 until yours (that I have or have seen) were unpainted alloy. I'd be getting out the quick-strip and high pressure water blaster before I put it back together.
Re the short throw on the R380, wouldn't it depend on weather you used a Disco or Defender selector top and then how far up the original stick you fitted the bracket for the replicator rod. The further away from the pivot the bracket is placed the longer the throw at the drivers gearstick.
Addit: Wouldn't using an R380/LT230 combination prevent you from using the OEM bottom PTO used on the 101" for the capstan winch?
Standard is natural alloy however some people like Ron paint their filler and drain plugs bright red.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterP
Garry
There is a reason for painting drain and filler plugs.
Not always, but some miltiary services painted them.
Red plugs were usually drain plugs, or some thing which should not be touched by drivers.
White paint was usually filler plugs and dip sticks.
Note most modern cars have yellow on the dip sticks in the engine bay to help drivers to find them.
When in service army Bliz trucks with split wheels had one set of wheel nuts painted white( Indicating to the drivers undo me) and the other set painted red( the ones holding the two halves of the wheel together and kills you if undo them with pressure in the tyre)
So red , yellow and white painted bolt, plugs and dip sticks are done for a reason and not for show.
May be Peters red painted transmission was a warning.........:p:p