If the valves aren't opening fully then they can't let enough air in so that could be one reason,a dirty air filter will do the same. Pat
I cleaned out my intercooler and fitted a set of silicone hoses today thinking I might have had a delamination problem. Intercooler was filthy inside so it was worthwhile. Very nice whistle down the snorkel now.
The engine still feels quite sluggish, I know it's not a rocket, but it doesn't have the willingness that my 200Tdi had. It seems like it's not breathing properly and on a few recent trips others have commented it's putting out a fair bit of black smoke. I'll agree that it does run very sooty even on a moderate throttle.
Will the valve clearances have any bearing on this? I've not done them during my tenure (because I don't know how) and I can't comment on the PO.
If the valves aren't opening fully then they can't let enough air in so that could be one reason,a dirty air filter will do the same. Pat
are your injectors clean
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
I replied to this in detail but the system load problem lost my reply. Should have known to backup my text.
I was saying:
I think the injectors are clean. If not I put 70 litres of injector cleaner in this morning (that is not a typo).
Fuel side: new filters, no air leaks, besides judging by the smoke I know its not a fuel supply issue
Air side: new filter, new silicone hoses, intercooler spotless, no turbocharger problems (EC tbh, no axial or radial play) no blockages/rubbish down the snorkel.
I've decided, bugger it, this too easy so I'll do it myself on Friday. I'll probably work as per the RAVE instructions, but can't you just turn the crankshaft until the valves aren't rocking for any given piston and then adjust both inlet and exhaust in one hit? Seems easier than guessing when valves are fully open.
Just go by the workshop manual.Trust me the hardest thing about the job is not skinning your knuckles turning the crank. Pat
You might be lucky,my defender didn't want to know about it. Pat
I normally just lift one front wheel and put the gearbox in fourth or fifth and turn that.
It's a pain getting to the crank on a defender with all hoses/belts/shrowds connected up.
To make it easier to rotate remove the glow plugs, get a friend to rotate the crank from underneath with a socket and ratchet, follow the directions in the LR workshop manual and check your settings again before starting, Regards Frank.
VALVE CLEARANCES - ADJUST
CAUTION: To prevent possibility of
damage to cam follower seatings, it is
essential that ball ends of tappet adjusting
screws are seated in recess in push rods and
that ball end of each push rod is correctly
located in cam follower slide.
1.Rotate crankshaft by means of crankshaft
pulley bolt in a clockwise direction until number
8 valve ( counting from front of engine ) is fully
open.
2.Using feeler gauges and a screwdriver, adjust
clearance of number 1 valve.
Valve clearance - all valves = 0.20 mm
3.Tighten tappet adjusting screw locknut when
clearance is correct.
4.Adjust the remaining valve clearances in the
following sequence:
Adjust number 3 clearance with number 6
valve fully open
Adjust number 5 clearance with number 4
valve fully open
Adjust number 2 clearance with number 7
valve fully open
Adjust number 8 clearance with number 1
valve fully open
Adjust number 6 clearance with number 3
valve fully open
Adjust number 4 clearance with number 5
valve fully open
Adjust number 7 clearance with number 2
valve fully open
5.Upon completion, re-check all clearances and
adjust as necessary.
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