No way...Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
PLA
= Extruder ~210c - 215c (depending on brand of filament)
= Bed ~ 60c
Printable View
No way...Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
PLA
= Extruder ~210c - 215c (depending on brand of filament)
= Bed ~ 60c
Thanks, , Mike. the reason I backpedalled on what I said was that the Overture filament I was using said 25°-60°. The FlashPrint Slicer put 40° in, but that probably was my fault, not its.
Does your printer sit in an enclosure? Warping can be minimised by slowing the cooling of the model after printing. The smallest air movement will whip the temperature out of the hot print, making it cool faster and exacerbate any warping. Of course cooler ambient winter temps make things worse again. My printer sits in a coreflute enclosure, which the printer itself keeps nice and warm inside when operating.
Chris
My printer has its own enclosure.Quote:
Originally Posted by cjc_td5
FlashForge CreatorPro 2, IDEX.
Same stl, different settings
Attachment 190121Attachment 190122
Seems straight so far..
Thats looking better
Except, when I came down this morning I found that the filament had bound on the spool, snapped, and the thing had been printing fresh air for around ten hours... ☹️Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
The FF does not have a filament out switch, it does not have a pause/restart function, and it is infamously untinkerable... It's a bit like a D2, so many things you don't know you need until you own one.
Bugger!
I just upgraded my Prusa Mk3s+ to 3.5.
I’ve been running a Revo print head for a while and 3.5+Revo is a lovely combination.
Whilst I had to pull it apart to upgrade, I figured a change of colour was in order.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7eb4e56eb6.jpg
Then printed this (manually swapping the filament took a total of 3.5 hours - it was proof of concept though, so the MMU is now on its way.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...87ede83c74.jpg
