TD5 Oil recommendations

Wow, good numbers those you provide in here. I really don't have a technical knowledge of oil, but I'm certain that my TD5 starts a lot better since I use Mobil 1. With others oil (used to use Delvac Diesel 15w40 and Castrol Syn 5w40) the morning start was a really hard task, specially in Bogota, with 5 celsius.... all these problems ends when 0w40 appears in my life...:D

In addition, the other ones only get dirty after a lot of mileage. When first time using M1, after around 30 miles the oil was completly black, I suppose it's good for cleaning purposes. Due to bad quality of diesel here in Colombia, I really needs a good oil to protect the engine....

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Originally Posted by carlosbeldia

Wow, good numbers those you provide in here. I really don't have a technical knowledge of oil, but I'm certain that my TD5 starts a lot better since I use Mobil 1. With others oil (used to use Delvac Diesel 15w40 and Castrol Syn 5w40) the morning start was a really hard task, specially in Bogota, with 5 celsius.... all these problems ends when 0w40 appears in my life...:D

In addition, the other ones only get dirty after a lot of mileage. When first time using M1, after around 30 miles the oil was completly black, I suppose it's good for cleaning purposes. Due to bad quality of diesel here in Colombia, I really needs a good oil to protect the engine....

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The 15W40 oil is way to heavy for a TD5 and will inhibit performance. The oil that should be used is 0w or 5w. 0w is great for cooler climates (ideal for you) and 5w for warmer. Castrol Syn5w40 should have been ok but not my choice oil. And then there is synthetic, semi synthetic and fossil oil.

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Originally Posted by TREX

Is this meant to be syntrax 75/90? hope so or im running the wrong stuff:(

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No not really, There is both Syntrans and Syntrax available. But 75/90 you are right should be Syntrax, but Syntrans can be used in place. Bit of a typo and I can not edit atm.

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Product Application
Castrol Syntrans 75W/85 is recommended for manual transmissions
where excellent synchroniser performance is required or where severe
duty or extended drain intervals are experienced. Also recommended
for passenger car and light commercial vehicle transmissions,
transaxles and transfer cases where API GL 3 or 4 and SAE 75W/85 or
80 viscosity is specified.
Castrol Syntrans 75W/85 has proved to provide the best synchroniser
performance in Mitsubishi, Pajero, Galant VR4 and Lancer GSR manual
transmissions. Also effective in Holden Jackaroo and Rodeo manual
transmissions for best cold shift performance, as well as in competition
applications.
Castrol Syntrans M is our prime recommendation for long drain
applications in Eaton Road Ranger, Spicer and Rockwell truck
transmissions, in both normal and severe duty conditions. It is suitable
for both synchronised and non-synchronised manual transmissions. It
is particularly recommended for long haul interstate trucks, b-double,
road train and other severe duty applications. However it may also be
used in manual transmissions of cars and light commercial vehicles
where API GL4 and SAE 75W/90 or SAE 40 or 50 engine oils are
recommended.
Syntrans
75W/85
Syntrans M
B1312/99

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Castrol Syntrax 75W-90
Full synthetic SAE 75W/90, API GL5. manual transmission, transaxle and rear axle lubricant with outstanding extreme pressure, synchronizer and high temperature performance. For vehicles that combine gearbox and hypoid diffs, rear axles of light cars and secondary drive axles of 4WD vehicles.

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I live in Cartagena, where cool temps are around 25 celsius at morning, with peaks of 40 celsius during day. However, its very noticeable the difference between o and 5, at least in the first start in the morning. Do you think a 10w40 (Mobil 2000, semi synth) is too thick for these conditions. Here, every change costs me around AUD 155 in oil and AUD 80 both filters. With 10w40, the oil costs gor around AUD 75, less than a half.

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Originally Posted by carlosbeldia

I live in Cartagena, where cool temps are around 25 celsius at morning, with peaks of 40 celsius during day. However, its very noticeable the difference between o and 5, at least in the first start in the morning. Do you think a 10w40 (Mobil 2000, semi synth) is too thick for these conditions. Here, every change costs me around AUD 155 in oil and AUD 80 both filters. With 10w40, the oil costs gor around AUD 75, less than a half.

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Hi Carlos, the Castrol 5W-40 you were running is a totally different brew to the 0W-40 oil we have here, yours is a North American market formula with different specs.
A 10W-40 will be fine. Any links to that oil at all ?
You want it to at least have an API CF or ACEA B3 diesel rating, but as I've often stated, I prefer CI-4 to CJ-4 and ACEA E4 to 7 diesel oil specs in diesels, unless a manufacturer has a specific specification they call for.

Now this will cause a $#!* fight.

Regarding different viscosities, if it never gets below 10*C you can easily use a 15W-40 heavy duty diesel oil if it has a relatively high viscosity index.
Most all 15W-40's are thinner at 10*C than any 5W-40 is going to be at -10*C, and -10* isn't that cold for a 5W oil.
The TD5 doesn't use hydraulically activated injectors so it isn't that viscosity sensitive anyway, and I know of certain 15W-40 oils that are thinner at around 0*C than some 5 and 10W-40's.

The 'W' ratings refer to an oils pumping pressure at certain temperatures well below 0*, they often aren't a good indicator at how an oil behaves from around 0* and above.
While lubricating oils behave in a Newtonian fashion, (ie, the warmer they become, the thinner they become) the viscosity changes with temperature aren't always in a linear fashion either.

For day to day use:- Penrite SP Diesel is fine for most light commercial Diesel applications.

For use in an expedition vehicle,that was going to be used in hot/cold harsh conditions,or conditions where the vehicle was under a lot of load or carrying a lot of weight for extended periods,where the engine temps were going to be high.Or in something like an OBC vehicle,I would recommend a Polyol ester based oil.And yes,oils ain't oils.There are reasons that only 3 brands of oil are recommended for use in Jet engines,because they are the only oils that will withstand the constant heat generated!!!! Would you trust an oil advertised by a cricketer,or a radio announcer???

Wayne

This is the Mobil 2000:

http://www.mobil.com/Australia-Engli...er_2000_x2.pdf

As far as I can see, it meets ACEA A3/B3, so it Exceeds the needs of my engine in my temp range, right? following the user manual of my year (2001), from -10 to +50, it's ok to use 10w40...

It isn't a dedicated diesel oil.But will work fine in a small diesel.And in the temp. range that you will be driving in.Change it regularly,and all should be ok.

Wayne

I use Shell Helix Ultra in the engine, and Nulon Full Synthetic everywhere else.

My spanner spinner now runs his own business after doing 20+ years as a mechanic with the stealer. I tend to believe him, possibly more than I should.

Is it overkill? Probably... :cool:

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Originally Posted by LowRanger

For day to day use:- Penrite SP Diesel is fine for most light commercial Diesel applications.

For use in an expedition vehicle,that was going to be used in hot/cold harsh conditions,or conditions where the vehicle was under a lot of load or carrying a lot of weight for extended periods,where the engine temps were going to be high.Or in something like an OBC vehicle,I would recommend a Polyol ester based oil.And yes,oils ain't oils.There are reasons that only 3 brands of oil are recommended for use in Jet engines,because they are the only oils that will withstand the constant heat generated!!!! Would you trust an oil advertised by a cricketer,or a radio announcer???

Wayne

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Sorry Wayne but I respectfully disagree.

POE's are overkill these days in most applications not involving gas turbines, hell, even PAO's can be overkill.

What sort of temps is anyone going to see in an engine that make POE's a necessity ?
If anyone is seeing oil temps above 120*C, install a bigger oil cooler, because regardless of how well the oil tolerates excessive temps, the oil will be too thin and the clearances and therefore bearings won't cope.
Speaking from experience there, and that's just with an ester/PAO oil. ;)

Bearing metal will be melted out before you reach the limit of a POE, PAO or di-ester and yes, i've seen that (at least with a di-ester based oil)
Blue rods, no bearing metal left, holes in pistons from detonation, cracked webs in the block but everything still went up and down and round and round......
Doesn't really prove anything.......

A balanced oil, one with a good additive package is far more important than the base oils used.
I'd take a good mineral oil with a very robust additive package over a POE oil that was relying on it's base for protection.
In fact, the most robust car/truck oil that I know of doesn't use a POE base at all, it's HOBS based. Still an ester, but vegetable based, not a syn POE.

Today's Group III based 'synthetics' are more than enough for a race application, let alone any over the road or off road application.
Shell use a mix of GIII/PAO/ester in their F1 brews.
I'd have no hesitation in using a GIII/PAO/ester blend, hell, a good GII mineral blend works fine for any 'expedition' application.

Sounds like someone's been sucked in by good old advertising, and yes, i use various Redline oils/grease too, and Motul oils, and I used NEO in race engines and transaxles nearly twenty years ago.
I was once an ester only spruiker, but then I learned that the additive package was far more important than the base oils.
I'm not knocking the boutique blends, I've used them a lot over the last twenty years, but stating that only POE bases should only be used for maximum protection is stretching things a touch too far IMO.

BTW, Russian jet engines use PAO's ;)