m r Auto had alook at it today, so a D/C is on order
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m r Auto had alook at it today, so a D/C is on order
It is interesting to me that a propshaft with a double cardan joint on only one end would cure vibrations without adjusting the diff pinion angle so that the angle of the single universal joint is no more than 3 or 4 degrees.
If it works it works I guess, but the text books I've read say it shouldn't.
Wagoo.
I will soon let you know ;)
Bil, i know what you are saying but from what I've read on here the problem with the Tdci engined/Getrag 'box equipped Defenders is that the entire driveline is angled more acutely than previous versions, so the stock uni at the t/case is running at pretty much maximum operating angle all the time.
If you lift the chassis a teensy weensy bit it looks like it all goes to hell in a handbasket, the uni binds and so they either need a DC or wide angle uni to fix it the problem.
I can hear Land Rovers answer already "The car is 'perfect' as it left the factory, why do you need to modify it ?"
I'm interested in raising mine. I have heard after market springs can ride harsh, and I kind of like the factory bounce.
So I was considering spring spacer blocks. It's cheaper, and I don't have to play with coil rates, just the shocks and a DC shaft.
Any thoughts on spacers
Spacers are fine if your only after a small lift, OME use packers to trim out any ride height discrepancies in their suspension installations, just don't be too ambitious.
Also remember that whatever gain you have in static ride height you will lose the corresponding amount of suspension droop as your working suspension travel is unaltered unless you address damper open/closed lengths, and then you need to look at lifting the front towers, changing the rear upper mounts, etc.
That goes for any lift where droop travel/damper lengths isn't considered.
ie, any spring lift too.
It isn't totally true that all aftermarket springs are a stiffer rate than OE, but most are.
eg. Les Richmond Automotive in Victoria, I think Dobinsons in Qld and I'm sure there are others, will set up a vehicle for the best outcome for you, usually with softer but longer coils, unless you really are overloading the vehicle.
Thanks Rick,
If I did replace the coils I was thinking Lovell coils, and either Bilsteins, Koni, or Lovell shocks. It's a bit of a mind field as many suppliers know very little about Land Rovers. I have 500kg of accessories, carry 250 to 500kg daily or for expeditions. I have heard several times Lovells hold there height well, but sometimes come with a bit more lift than expected.
It sounds like going cheap on coil spacers is to no advantage after the towers and mounts are factored in.
TonC,
It's all pondering at present, but we plan to do a fair bit of desert and long haul travel in the future.
We are considering some sill tanks, and because the 130 is a long vehicle I was thinking it may need a 2" lift to keep the cars off road prowess. Now in the desert a sill tank banging on a dune doesn't matter, but we not opposed to sticking it into some rutted gully either on a weekends camping trip.
I like the feel of the original coils, and don't really want to replace it with a harsh one because I replaced the suspension.
I'm taking the same route with mine.I want to keep a supple ride to cope with corrigations but need it to handle the weight on the front for a winch and bar.I was going to leave the rears and fit airbags but the front needs a 40mm lift to get it even and the next weight up spring,I'm not fitting a bullbar but a winch bumper to reduce the load.I read somewhere about disco's having a rubber spacer between the spring and mount and that will help also with the harsness,whatever way I go I want secondary/dirt road stability and comfort over wheel travel etc and a set of correctly valved bilsteins to suit. Pat