Thread: HD DC or 1330 uni for front prop ?

I swapped out my OEM front propshaft some 2 years ago because the sliding splines had too much play. I replaced with a new one, only to find out 3 weeks ago that it was a TD5 one with the 92mm UJs.

The UJs in the TD5 one only lasted 2 years and almost all of that time at standard height. I raised the vehicle 2" about 4 months ago. I'm not sure if that accelerated the play in the UJs. I do grease them regularly and over that time, have not done excessive mileage nor offroad abuse.

I was disappointed with the life of the TD5 one and the amount of play after 2 years. Next time I'd look at the costs of a DC one.

92mm = 1330 series Spicer uni, so i guessed right.

They don't have a bigger operating angle than the 1300 series, but they are bigger/stronger so should last longer at the angle they are asked to operate at.
Two years isn't very long at all.

Originally Posted by rick130

Well, the uni at the t/case end of the shaft is starting to show the tiniest bit of play so it's time, and seeing as I have it a pretty good angle I reckon it needs an update and I've always wanted to have a poll

Hardy-Spicer have their HD DII replacement Double Cardan assembly (pt. # 800-R2540) which uses the Japanese 25R uni's, (bigger than the L/R ones, the same as used in L/Cruisers, etc) and more importantly a serviceable/replaceable centre bearing.
I can get that cut and welded onto my existing shaft.

Slunnie bought a DC shaft from Tom Woods in the US which IIRC uses 1310 uni's and at the current exchange rate might be a viable option.

Or,

Do I just get a TD5 Deefer front shaft which uses a 1330 (I think) uni at the t/case end.

I've been lucky thus far and haven't had a real vibe issue considering the height of the front end, but I'm open to arguments for and against.

Simple or smooth ?

Please vote and give a reason why

I'm pretty sure the Spicer DII part does not have a greasable centre bearing, but does have greasable uni joints.

The TD5 Defer front shaft is a regular uni -> uni shaft also, its not a DC shaft. Is it the Puma shaft??? If it is, are you def its 1330, and if so is it compatible with a D2 output flange? Also, does it have a greasable centre bearing - I'm increasingly thinking that this a trigger for DC failures, but depending it sounds like an interesting upgrade option.

The bigger uni joints are more durable, but if there are any vibrations coming from that area, the larger joints will increase this problem (ie,why you wouldn't run a 1350 on the road like what the rock crawlers run).

Personally, if the Puma??? DC shaft is fully greasable ie centre bearing and unis, and you don't have vibs then it sounds good, otherwise I would run with the Tom Woods 1310 shafts with his unis and greasable centre bearing.

Slunnie, the Hardy Spicer HD DC centre bearing is at least replaceable, which it isn't with the OE DC as everyone finds out .
I'll ring and ask re being greasable in situ. There's an access hole in the photo's on the flyer I have, and if you blow it up it looks like there's a grease nipple there.
It'd be nice if you could jam the grease gun in there when doing the uni's, sort of defeats the purpose if the uni's are greasable and it isn't, doesn't it ?

The TD5 Defender just uses a single 1330 uni at the t/case end and a 1300 at the diff end vs 1300/1300 uni's for a Tdi.

The Puma shafts are a totally different length.

My replacement front prop shaft (which I thought was TD5) has 92mm UJs at both ends

Spicer unit is fully greaseable at all points

Originally Posted by isuzu110

My replacement front prop shaft (which I thought was TD5) has 92mm UJs at both ends

Thanks.
Been a while since i looked under a TD5 Fender. If it's not too wet tomorrow I'll crawl under a friends one in town

why and i running a DC, i see it as if i do get more lift, with a dc you are going to need some massive flex b4 the DC will start to fail, the one im running is uprated allround and is fully greasabull, (it was a d2 sharft to start with b4 mods) there isent much left of it tho,

and yes i had to change my tc out put flange to a d2 flange, no biggy, 5min job, and 200 bucks later and i have a very strong shaft,