Thread: Brake line schematics

No, or at least not on the 130, although there's one shown in the service manual.

Apparently the M/C is a 25.4mm/1" bore just like the Oz spec PBR ones off the 110/120 too.

Matt,
just thinking - which is dangerous I know.
It may be easier/ neater to buy the front left and right hard lines from MC to wheel arch.

They will bolt straight in without mucking around bending bundy all over the engine bay.

The rear line is easy enough but the fronts are a little funky and will be same for any later model tdi fender of any wheel base? Even some hard lines from a wrecker would do the job - not too much to go wrong with hard drawn tube?

Steve

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Matt,
just thinking - which is dangerous I know.
It may be easier/ neater to buy the front left and right hard lines from MC to wheel arch.

They will bolt straight in without mucking around bending bundy all over the engine bay.

The rear line is easy enough but the fronts are a little funky and will be same for any later model tdi fender of any wheel base? Even some hard lines from a wrecker would do the job - not too much to go wrong with hard drawn tube?

Steve

Very true Steve, trying to find someone with a wrecked fender is the prob

I think I'll just run all new, only bundy tube, enough P clamps and it'll look like I did a good job

Good suggestion Steve.

I was originally going to try and mate the Lucas MC to the PBR booster I have but I'd have to undo the booster and clock it to suit.

Just as easy in my case to bend up some bundy, although the only bender i have small enough to do it is aluminium.

Rick if you have a mate who is a fridgey they will have the gear to loan?

Matt, you can see in Ricks second picture where the left side tube bends back up to go across the firewall to get to the left side chassis rail. Seems a logical way to get from MC across with only 90 degree bends. Maybe Rick can take some more purdy pickchas to help with the runs?

If you are going with bundy - Ive always preferred the way tojo front lines run small flex lines from chassis housing across to caliper, rather than a long exposed hanger from wheel arch to caliper. You could either have double flex lines to the diff and across or follow the diff breather line along the radius arm? The more I think about it the more it seems easier just to follow OEM...

S

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Rick if you have a mate who is a fridgey they will have the gear to loan?

[snip]
S

I know one bloke really well but he's a bit of an A hole, and thinks he's pretty flash at running pipe too, but getting him to do it is another story



The benders from 3/8" up are all steel but the small 3/16", 1/4" I have is aluminium but should be Ok for steel bundy tube.

Last time I did the brake lines on the 130 the bender I had was too wide for the close bends. Ended up doing it by hand. Only messed up a couple.

When I did the hydraulic lines for brakes on the big trailer (9m boat - triple axle - 6 calipers) I used some flash tube from the brake place. Not standard hard steel bundy, much softer but still all ADR blahblahblah. Seemed to be a copper type alloy, was claimed to much more rust resistant which is good on a vehicle that gets drowned in saltwater as its MO. Not too evil a price for a 20m roll? Either way, it very easy to bend (softer) and aluminium formers would be fine for it?

Can see if it has any markings on it for ID?

Steve