I absolutely prefer a proerklyu rated one that goes into teh Hayman Reese tow hitch. Suits me better as i have a 130 and the cross member isn't conveniently at the rear flush with the body.
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I absolutely prefer a proerklyu rated one that goes into teh Hayman Reese tow hitch. Suits me better as i have a 130 and the cross member isn't conveniently at the rear flush with the body.
I agree 110% and may use the same setup as soon as my new defender arrives. My point however (if anyone gets it) is that you are exactly correct - it is a **feeling** and as VladTepes states a **preference** but it isn't substantiated by a relevant and valid recovery rating. :D:D:DQuote:
Originally Posted by miky
Again, I agree with you but what's your Hayman Reese tow hitch rated at? Sure, it may be rated at 3,500Kg for towing, but what's it rated at for recovery? This is rhetorical of course because there is no technically valid answer!Quote:
Originally Posted by VladTepes
I have access to the Australian Standards and had a look at those that relate to towbars. It involves all sorts of dynamic loadings expected to be exerted under towing conditions applied to the towbar assembly on a rig.
There is no way that any company would certify any other capability to its product. That is not to say that a recovery won't break it it's just that they don't know...too many variables.
I'd trust the tow bar or any other attachment only so far...and how far is that...I don't know and nor does anyone else.
BTW I have a LR Tow Bar and a hitch block.
Personally I think the standard tow bar regardless of brand will suffice if it looks relatively heavy duty.
My feeling on LR stamping for "towing purposes only" reside in exactly what one-iota is saying. The variables are so many to suggest it a designated recovery point is too open.
People have been yanking other cars out of bogs for decades with tow bars, I have never heard of one being ripped off a car. I have seen some pretty bent flimsy looking ones on Hiluxs' but thats about it.
Very valid point and I agree.....in fact have been doing it that way myself for a few of those decades.Quote:
Originally Posted by newhue
The same can not be said for usiong the bullbar being used as a recovery point and there have been bad accidents as a result of that but solid anchoring to the chassis has always worked for me.
Anyone know what size and threads the rear bolts holes are?
Looks close to the top 4 being 12mm and the bottom 2 being 16mm but they don't quite feel right. 12mm feels a touch loose and the 16mm feels a bit tight. Makes me suspect they might be imperial.
Can anyone save me looking like a dill at the local fastener place!
I have posted more pics of this in my build thread in Members Rides but thoguht it was appropiate to conclude this thread as well.
I decided to make my own rear recovery point based on the South African design I found on the net.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/07/1299.jpg
I just ordered the attached from MR Automotive for the front. (I tried ARB, OL, and Rovercraft first.)
For the back I purchased a Bushranger recovery point which fits in a standard square tow bar from ARB on Saturday.
Thanks for all the info on this site.
Beckford.
Good choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beckford
Attachment 36171
Supplied and fitted earlier this year by MR Automotive.
Some pictures of the MR Automotive Recovery Points I installed yesterday, before I put the front bar back on.
I purchased 4 x 120mm long M12 8.8 High Tensile Bolts from Gosford Bolts & Bearings. I had to drill an additional 12.5mm hole in the top of the chassis for each point, and drill out the hole the factory tie down point was in to 12.5mm. Cleaned up the swarf with a magnet & degreaser, then sprayed some cold gal & black kill rust in the holes and area. (should have let it dry longer than a few hours, but started raining) I then used some 3/4" galvanised pipe inside the top of the chassis to stop the chassis from crushing and galvanised washers as packing as required.
Any ideas how I should rust proof the zinc coated High Tensile Bolts?
(The best idea I can come up with is to smear them with grease.)
Again, thanks for the info already posted on this site.
Beckford.
