Repainting a 130.

Exactly what ipom said...
Remember the 7 P's
Prior Preperation & Planning Prevents **** Poor Performance.
Painting is the easy bit, but if you don't do some basics like removing indicators etc (not just taping them up) then you will always look at it and think that's crap!
For a semi decent job, allow a few days just for prep work and get yourself a cheap compressor and give it a go! (you can do the inside of the doors etc with a brush)
For a really good job, get someone to remove the glass prior to painting... but it is a defender don't forget;)
Good luck and don't forget the rules! (Photo's!)

Spraying a car is not a problem...it's the prep that's the pain, looking at your 130 at DD it should be an easy prep. Do you want to do interior and engine bay as well or just exterior.The most important thing is to have a very clean area, low humidity still day, wax remove everything(then do again)and a clean gun and lines and hot dry couple of days after to bake.

If you need to know somone in Redcliffe let me know.

cheers
paul

Do not use 2K paint, use Acrylic...more room for error afterwards and thoroughly wet the floor around the car to keep the dust down whilst your spraying.......

Take your time with masking out...and if you can remove anything do so...try and push the windows rubber back into the window surround rebate with a blunt screwdriver or similar...saves getting a poxy paint edge on the rubber...

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Originally Posted by iPom

Do not use 2K paint, use Acrylic...

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Bugger that... I would NEVER use acrylic on a landy. 2K is fairly easy to paint, about a million times more durable, and is shiny off the gun (no buffing).

If anyone is serious about learning how, look for the posts by Bru21 on outerlimits, he has painted heaps of cars with 2K, and has posted heaps of detailled instructions.

Have a read of this

And maybe this

IMHO 2 pack or 2K paint is far more scratch resistant than Acrylic. I wouldn't use anything else. I also use a 2 pack Hifill underneath to get a consistant final colour.

Changing colours can be quite a challange, how far do you go and what will still be visible of the old colour when you open a door or bonnet.



An rough guide of costs.

4l good quality 2K Hifill with hardener $150
2 l 2K base coat with 4l base coat reducer $200
2l 2K Clear coat with hardener $200

Then you need other consumables such as thinners, gun wash, paper, masking tape, filler and hardener, prepsol, .......

IMHO if you undertake such a task it pays to use reasonable good paint.

Another suggestion would be to do all the prep work yourself and have a panel beater do the final painting in a booth.

Erich

I do agree that 2K is a more durable product and is glossy off the gun....but if you're not a competent spray painter....well acrylic is the way to go...it's just more forgiving for a novice painter which I assume the original poster is?

2K is better off being applied in a spray booth by a competent hand and baked off rather than in yer backyard with the kids watching....

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Originally Posted by iPom

in yer backyard with the kids watching....

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You work for Today Tonight do you??? talk about sensationalism...

Yes - 2K is an isocyanate based paint which is a neurotoxin and a very good respirator of appropriate type should be worn while spraying. Anyone else should be as far away as possible (upwind). However it is legal to spray outside a booth.

Have you ever tried sanding and buffing all the intricate shapes on a landie sprayed with acrylic??? Especially if sprayed by a beginner and piled high with overspray. I think you would need rocks in your head to paint a landie with acrylic. And then you would have to do it all again after a couple of years in the bush being scraped by lantana.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

.... 2K is fairly easy to paint, about a million times more durable, and is shiny off the gun (no buffing).

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If you go down the 2 pack route, make sure you use the proper respirator so you don't breathe any of it in....