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Quote:
Originally Posted by land864
There is, as suggested, a laid down test procedure, which is along the lines of "park for 24hrs unloaded, measure spring stop clearance. Load half a dozen bags of cement in the back, drive half a kilometre over a not too smooth road, measure clearance on spring stops. Should be the same withing x mm".
But basically, I found that with a full load, it was sitting on the stops and stayed there.
John
I would first of all try some decent shocks. The standard 110 Defender springs are very smooth WITH GOOD SHOCKS. I have transformed many 110's and even 130's by fitting DeCarbon shocks and leaving the springs alone. This gives you good load carrying with excellent ride. (The County is smoother again due to softer rear springs.)
I have had these shocks on my RRC and now my 110 for 7 years and LOTS of bad roads and they still feel like they did when I fitted them.
Also, after fitting many sets over the years I have had only 1 warranty claim on 1 shock due to MINOR leakage. NONE due to failure or breakage.
They are worth a try for sure, you won't be disappointed.
JC
Springs are a bit like shocks Pat, putting better springs in, is a bit like replacing the standard shocks with Koni raids;)Quote:
Originally Posted by PAT303
Come on Pat there are better set ups than standard, I have 3 inch Dobinson coils and they are great way better than standard.Quote:
Originally Posted by PAT303
The standard shock set up is crap I think as you are left with bugger all down travel, why is it you can fit those two inch lower shock mounts for standard shocks if they are so perfect, just one area rover should have made better
My trip to Dobinsons would have to be the best thing I've done for my 130.Quote:
Originally Posted by PAT303
Quote:
Originally Posted by lambrover
Is it possible that this is because it sits a lot lower when at maximum load? Compromise you have with any load carrying vehicle unless you have self levelling suspension, but it gets worse the more the difference between loaded and empty axle load.
John
OK stop jumping on me,how many of you have bought ARB/TJM 2'' lift springs that are the same length as the originals but twice as stiff with thier matching crappy shocks?.Buying the same rate springs but longer with good shocks(koni's/billies) is the only way to go. Pat
OK, I will stick my neck out here as I do not have a lot of actual experience with 110(well none really).
However The layout is virtually exactly the same as a RRC /Disco at the front and the back is heavier to carry de load, but the same in layout.
The standard springs according tothe Canadian site are
Front 155/215 and are handed 15.4 L and 14.6 or something R.
SO- as long as they have not sagged or there is a winch and heavy bullbar there the front springs should be fine for ride.
So I would be looking on the front to see if there is a bullbar and winch there which compresses, the "ride" portion of the springs.
If there is , you may be better off with a set of say Range Rover LRA green or pink.
If you do NOT have a winch and Bullbar and you can see daylight between the coils at top or bottom that are closer together ( ie they are not sagged )then someone has believed the hype and replaced the shocks with nice firm sporty ones and ruined your ride.
The rear is a bit tougher as there does not seem to be any lighter springs available than the standard 270/420 to carry 1000KG or whatever, except for LR OEM 180 lb springs to suit a load leveller. If you have the holes in the back crossmember for the top mount for a load leveller then one could be fitted. This will be a revelation in ride.
I think the ride will be quite firm with those rear rates but again I would ensure that the shocks are not sporty specials and that the "ride" portion of the springs has not sagged so that the coils are together.
Regards Philip PS , you could always have lighter springs custom made by Lovells or someone to your spec, and I would suggest maybe 220lbs and place airbags inside for load.
JDNSW, but it's no excuses for having a crap shock set up, longer shocks don't mean its going to carry less of a load. They could have designed a shock that has more down travel to suit the amount of travel available from the mounts, its not rocket science it's just being cheap.
PAT303, because you said this:
Originally Posted by PAT303
For the life of me I do not know why people buy LR's and then stuff them up buying aftermarket suspension.Original springs with Koni track rider shocks gives very good ride, comfort and handling in Defenders and Disco 1's. Pat
My comment is about the fact you said it is crazy to modify from standard, then you say later on that it's the ARB and TJM kits that are crap, and I agree they are. As you stated they are the same height but stiff as hell, giving a crap ride and no flex. Then later on say that longer coils of the same rate are the way to go and change the shocks to koni's. I agree, so it appears that you actualy do like modified suspension after all :D.
Originally Posted by PAT303
Buying the same rate springs but longer with good shocks(koni's/billies) is the only way to go
So it would be best to say that the best way to modify your landy suspension is to fit longer coils of the same or similar rate, ie dobinson coils and a good shock ie Koni, bilstiens. It comes down to how much knowledge the buyer has about products, but thats just my opinion.
Ditto what JC said.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
LR's standard dampers appear to have absolute bucket loads of low and mid speed bump, making the ride harsh on less than smooth surfaces.