Electrical Problem- Gauges all over the place

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Originally Posted by alexturner

Hey mate, I just went down to jaycar and bought 4 of their largest blue LED's. The would have been just under a cm in diameter. I then took the plastic bulb holders in the defender dash, removed the bulbs and used some needle nose pliers to remove the metal tabs inside.

Once that was done I soldered a 440k ohm resistor to the positive leg of the LED and hot glued it into the existing bulb mount. I then used the needle nosed pliers to break and remove the green cover inbuilt into the the gauge to remove it.

I then lathered the mount in more hot glue and glued them to the holes where the lights used to sit.

Pretty blue gauges :)

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Or you can do what I have done to my two defenders and buy the kit from eBay. Pretty cheap

I just put the bulbs straight in no messing around. Although I did not remove the green tints , but need to drill them out on a 300tdi and still alot better lights with them in

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/05/440.jpg


Sent from my iPhone

Ali I haven't been able to find any such kit - can you point me in the right direction ?

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Originally Posted by VladTepes

Ali I haven't been able to find any such kit - can you point me in the right direction ?

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Here you go

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/vi...d=350372098002




Sent from my iPhone

for led replacement for the instrument lights, search ebay for a t10 led.

here is what you want if you are after blue light.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-Car-T...item415389a7ef

To check your earthing, run a nice wire back to your battery terminal. Use your jump lead with a short wire clamped to one end and coonect short wrire to instrument with suspected poor earth. Then you will know if you have a poor earth problem to fix.

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Originally Posted by slug_burner

To check your earthing, run a nice wire back to your battery terminal. Use your jump lead with a short wire clamped to one end and coonect short wrire to instrument with suspected poor earth. Then you will know if you have a poor earth problem to fix.

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I did all that, then out of frustration i invested in a 500 Ohm potentiometre. I connected the 12V power supply to the power terminal on the gauge and then place the 500Ohm pot between the sender terminal and earth (ground). Regardless of the pot's value the gauge would still rise, though when wound to 500Ohm (or higher resistances) it would climb faster. I think I have two dead gauges...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by alexturner

I did all that, then out of frustration i invested in a 500 Ohm potentiometre. I connected the 12V power supply to the power terminal on the gauge and then place the 500Ohm pot between the sender terminal and earth (ground). Regardless of the pot's value the gauge would still rise, though when wound to 500Ohm (or higher resistances) it would climb faster. I think I have two dead gauges...

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have looked at workshop manual, fuel and water temp gauge share the supply on a green wire. fuel gauge has other side going off on a green black trace wire.

green/black goes back to fuel sender.

the tank sender is a variable resistor one end and wiper connected to ground, the other end back to the gauge.

temp sender is depicted in the same manner, wire connecting sender and gauge is green/white close to the gauge then on the otherside of the connector it goes to green/blue.

the green/black from fuel gauge also goes to the low fuel level unit.


for some reason I think that the sender are 180 ohm units although I was not able to confirm it.

The gauges do have a damped response so once you swing your test pot to read full I expect the gauge to climb.

Did you disconnect the sender when you used your test pot or did you throw it in parallel?

A little unfortunate/unlikely for both gauges to go at the same time!

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Originally Posted by VladTepes

Ali I haven't been able to find any such kit - can you point me in the right direction ?

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Vlad. easier way to do it is to go to Jaycar and buy 4 "led globe T 10 wedge 4 x blue" cost $2.85 each

Then put them straight into you defender

They look like this

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/05/170.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/05/171.jpg


Ali

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Originally Posted by slug_burner

have looked at workshop manual, fuel and water temp gauge share the supply on a green wire. fuel gauge has other side going off on a green black trace wire.

green/black goes back to fuel sender.

the tank sender is a variable resistor one end and wiper connected to ground, the other end back to the gauge.

temp sender is depicted in the same manner, wire connecting sender and gauge is green/white close to the gauge then on the otherside of the connector it goes to green/blue.

the green/black from fuel gauge also goes to the low fuel level unit.


for some reason I think that the sender are 180 ohm units although I was not able to confirm it.

The gauges do have a damped response so once you swing your test pot to read full I expect the gauge to climb.

Did you disconnect the sender when you used your test pot or did you throw it in parallel?

A little unfortunate/unlikely for both gauges to go at the same time!

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Didn't wire it in parallel wired it just as you described, then took the gauge out and wired it using the battery directly as the power source. As I bought my car with a non-working speedo I now have not one working gauge in my panel :(

I'm not sure where to go from here.

FIrstly I would ensure that the gauges are ok or rs. Having got the gauges out I would put them on a bench with a linear pot (not log) to ensure that you getting a good range acroos the pot. Also check what the resistance of your fuel and temp senders are and match your pot as close as you can other wise you will also lose range.

When your measuring the sender resistance do it both from the wire at the dash and then do it at the sender bypassing the wiring. You should get the same readings if all is ok.

Other technique is to compare with a known good vehicle.

After that you either need some new gauges or you need to find the fault in the vehicle wiring.