Reply With QuoteYou've disconnected the earth to the gauges at a guess. Just possible it was already faulty, but was using the dash lights as an earth, but now the dash lights are not passing enough current.
John
Master
SubscriberHey Guys,
I thought I'd be all clever and replace the gauge illuminator lamps with blue LED's to match the stereo. All went well and it looks... very cool now, though upon re-installing the dash I noticed that all the gauges were way off.
The empty fuel tank is reading full
The Radiator is reading hot (on a cold motor)
and the brand new battery is under 12v
Obviously I've disturbed something - but what could it be? Its a 200Tdi '93 btw.
Thanks
Alex
RoverLord
You've disconnected the earth to the gauges at a guess. Just possible it was already faulty, but was using the dash lights as an earth, but now the dash lights are not passing enough current.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Swaggie
Certainly as John says, an earth wire is loose or no longer connected.
JC
ForumSage
... But the blue looks heaps better than the anaemic incandescent bulbs !!!
Master
Subscriberoh - it's well worth the dodgy readings :POriginally Posted by superquag
... But the blue looks heaps better than the anaemic incandescent bulbs !!!
Master
SubscriberHmm, is earth the same as the black ground wire? I'm yet to get these working :/
Thanks,
Alex
RoverLord
Yes, if its the same as mine.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO
Subscriberwhat LED's did you use please ?
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
Master
SubscriberHey mate, I just went down to jaycar and bought 4 of their largest blue LED's. The would have been just under a cm in diameter. I then took the plastic bulb holders in the defender dash, removed the bulbs and used some needle nose pliers to remove the metal tabs inside.
Once that was done I soldered a 440k ohm resistor to the positive leg of the LED and hot glued it into the existing bulb mount. I then used the needle nosed pliers to break and remove the green cover inbuilt into the the gauge to remove it.
I then lathered the mount in more hot glue and glued them to the holes where the lights used to sit.
Pretty blue gauges
Master
Subscriber
Im getting no where with this. I just spent a solid hour trying to get these gauges working and nothing.
So on both the Fuel and Oil Temp gauges there are two pins:
1) Seems to provide power at 12V
2) Seems to come from the sender unit (transmitter).
I'm not 100% but it does appear as though there were a few ground wires attached to lugs around a long screw (which holds the gauge in place) - are these the gauge grounds?
My understanding is that the gauges run off the 12V power source, then the reading is modified by the resistance of the sender unit (or so it seems as the resistance of the fuel sender and ground seemed to sit around 150ohm).
How do these gauge units ground? How can I test them - can I wire in a pot between and sender pin and ground and fiddle? Could I have dodgey gauges?
Please help - I think I have an empty tank but I'm not sure :P
Thanks.
Alex
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