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That's disgracefull! Did the engineers, and I use the term very loosely, at LandRover forget why the early 130 chassis had 3'' wide additional reinforcing strips of steel welded virtually full length along both the top and bottom of the chassis rails?
Also, aluminium bodywork cannot tolerate being hard bolted to a flexible chassis, otherwise they will crack up in no time. That is why LandRovers have box section chassis that are supposed to be rigid.
Wagoo.
I think I read somewhere that all 130 chassis are double thickess on one side of the chassis rail and not both. Or at least were when the chassis were made by the special vehicles division?
Pretty poor but as time goes by they all seem to get worse.
I thought that this was one of the reasons the Wolf Chassis was modified cant find any photos but I think they had a sub frame above the chassis
Could this be due to these being run of the mill production 130's? and not from the special vehicle section????
Hello Ray,
Agree that my problem caused by loads above and behind the back axle- and the weld across the top of the chassis became the weakest point - the break was a bit further back than the photos of the cherry picker - broke where the chassis bends up to go to the rear spring mounts.
The next tray I build will have more flex in the mounts.
Have been putting 1t. pallets on the tray and often towing heavy trailers. And complicated by the spare wheel (heavy) and tool boxes under the tray behind the wheels. And the roads are not so good........
The fix was remarkably simple - 3mm mild steel plate and a mig welder - have plated all around both sides of the chassis. A couple of photos attached. 30,000 km later and no more problems.
Realistically I am not really worried about it - the fix was easy and no other dual cab vehicle I know of could have done the work this one has - now at 200K.
And to clarify the issue with steel thickness n the chassis - one entire rail was of thinner steel than the other - not just one side of each rail. I surmise that when they picked up the bits of steel to make the chassis there was a slight error made........
alanw
That's where all the 130's I've seen crack, the ones above with buckets are loading the chassis differently.Quote:
Originally Posted by alanw
Thanks for the pics Alan W, the reason I asked was it is good to know if a fix stands up to further hard use and no other problems arise. This can then be considered a good or recommended fix for a 130 chassis cracking problem at that point, without having to reinvent the wheel.
I would probably have sniped the plate ends so the repair does not put a vertical weld the full height of the chassis and pobably offset them slightly, relative to each other, But the best test is use and time test in the real world.
A heavy tow ball load from your loaded trailer on rough road adds to the overall chassis load at that point as well. 200 000ks of hard honest work is good and you get to respct the vehicle.
There is a thread on 4WD action forum relating to Mitsubishi Triton Chassis bending.Astonishingly it was mentioned that any repair work must not include extra non factory reinforcement. Something to do with contravening Australian design rules. When I have time I'll revisit that thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by alanw
Wagoo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
just to ad abit about the tritons from what i have seen most if not all vechiles that have had the failure seem to be fitted with air bags,
Above where the airbags are being mounted there is a hole in the chassis and this is where the chassis breaks or bends.
From what I've been told Bill most truck repair places won't touch a cracked chassis for that reason.Quote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
I know of one 130 that the repairer was really antsy about doing it and did the repairs in such a way that the plating was internal and you needed a keen eye to pick it.