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Thread: roverdrive overdrive

  1. #101
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    If you are after an electric oil pump look at JEGS Performance Auto Parts - Holley - Billet Specialties - Edelbrock - MSD - Moroso - Mr Gasket they do all sorts of performance car stuff and at good price and will post and can pay using paypal. Don't go looking for anything too spefic away from the US car brands, accessories you should be right.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdt463 View Post
    I have fitted the Roverdrive and the finned Roverdrive larger sump and taken a few short drives to compare transfer box oil temps.
    The first drive was with only the sump fitted. and I drove about 40 Ks on an undulating road .
    The air temperature was 18 - 19 C
    oil temp 63 C.

    Second drive was with The Roverdrive fitted and overdrive engaged. and the same road.
    The air temperature was 27 - 28 C
    Oil temp 75 C

    Third drive was with the Roverdrive disengaged and again same road.
    The air temp was 16 - 17 C
    oil temp 64 - 65 C

    Fourth drive I turned around and drove the same route again but this time with the Roverdrive engaged.
    Air temp still 16 - 17 C
    Oil temp 73 C

    On first impressions I have a fair bit of gear whine which I had been told to expect until the new gear beds with the ones in the transfer case, This is mainly noticeable at lower speeds and seems to decrease as the oil gets warm. ( maybe I just get used to it )

    The Defender now just lopes along at 100 kph 2000 RPM with only fraction of the noise I was getting in the cab.

    It may just be an illusion but I do not think 1st overdrive is as high as 2nd with no overdrive as there does not seem to be any need to disengage the roverdrive when coming to a stop, the vehicle pulling away again quite easily even on a slight incline.
    Dave
    Thanks Dave, very useful information.
    I am driving my defender with the overdrive engaged all the time and no problems taking off in 1st gear.
    With the mods done to the truck it has no problems in all gears and is a pleasure to drive.
    So I am thinking at the moment to only disengage O/D when I am loaded up for camping and engage in 4th or 5th.
    Still to fit the temp gauge and still thinking of fitting it directly to the T/C and not the sump cover but that is another story.
    Thanks again for your info, much appreciated

    Cheers,
    Paul
    Paul.

    77 series3 (sold)
    95 300Tdi Ute (sold)
    2003 XTREME Td5

    I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

  3. #103
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    Hi Paul . And thank you for starting a really interesting thread . I
    I will be doing the same as you and leaving the Roverdrive engaged when not loaded.
    I also find that pulling away in 1st overdrive save’s you having to grab 2nd half way through an intersection which is always fun with someone bearing down on you.
    Cheers Dave

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdt463 View Post
    I have fitted the Roverdrive and the finned Roverdrive larger sump and taken a few short drives to compare transfer box oil temps.
    The first drive was with only the sump fitted. and I drove about 40 Ks on an undulating road .
    The air temperature was 18 - 19 C
    oil temp 63 C.

    Second drive was with The Roverdrive fitted and overdrive engaged. and the same road.
    The air temperature was 27 - 28 C
    Oil temp 75 C

    Third drive was with the Roverdrive disengaged and again same road.
    The air temp was 16 - 17 C
    oil temp 64 - 65 C

    Fourth drive I turned around and drove the same route again but this time with the Roverdrive engaged.
    Air temp still 16 - 17 C
    Oil temp 73 C

    On first impressions I have a fair bit of gear whine which I had been told to expect until the new gear beds with the ones in the transfer case, This is mainly noticeable at lower speeds and seems to decrease as the oil gets warm. ( maybe I just get used to it )

    The Defender now just lopes along at 100 kph 2000 RPM with only fraction of the noise I was getting in the cab.

    It may just be an illusion but I do not think 1st overdrive is as high as 2nd with no overdrive as there does not seem to be any need to disengage the roverdrive when coming to a stop, the vehicle pulling away again quite easily even on a slight incline.
    Dave
    Are you running a Oil Cooler on your R380? I will, when I get my truck going (hopefully in the next week), do some tests on my LT77s without cooler, but with an extend sump on my LT230 if this is of interest to anyone to compare.

    James

  5. #105
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    James I am not at present running an oil cooler on the R380 but is something I will be considering in the future so would will be interested in any temperature information you or anyone else can post..
    When it comes to heat reduction in that area I tend to agree with what Michael 2 had to say in an earlier post.

    Micheal2 posted
    My hypothesis is that after awhile the gearbox and transfer case will be running at the same temperature, as one will become a heatsink for the other. If that's the case, then it may be easier to install an oilcooler to the R380 and thus reduce the latent heat on the transfercase.

    If heat is a problem, then this may be effective enough. Otherwise one may need to disengage the o/drive in extreme heat, much like one needs to back off the accelerator when EGTs get too high on a refuelled diesel.

    I did in fact contact Ray at Roverdrive to confirm that the Roverdrive is only generating heat when engaged . his response was

    David when the overdrive is disengaged all the interior parts are locked together and rotate at the same speed. The bearings generate some heat but very little.
    Ray

  6. #106
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    Hello,
    There is excellent information and interesting opinions in this thread. Thanks.
    I own a Td5 D110 which has a 2.8 TGV engine (mildly tweaked) installed.
    I currently have 1.22 Discovery gears in my transfer case but I will go back to the original Defender (1.44) ratio soon since I want to change from 265/75/16 to 255/85/16 tires very soon and I calculate tha the gearing will be too "high" for the 1.22 transfer ratio and 255 tires all together.

    I am considering perhaps installing a Roverdrive some day but before doing so want to be sure I will not "cook" my transfer case/Roverdrive oil (I live in Argentina and it can esaily get up to 35 degrees Celsius and more in summer; this is not northern Australia but is definitely much hotter than northern Europe)

    After this long introduction my question is the following:
    My 380 gearbox has the long pipe going all the way to the front of the engine and back and since my 2.8 TGV engine is fitted with a 300 Tdi radiator it has the original 300Tdi engine oil cooler next to the radiator which IS NOT BEING USED becasue the International 2.8 engine does not need it.

    SO, my question is: can I connect the gearbox cooling pipe (which has its U turn just next to the 300Tdi oil cooler) to the 300Tdi oil coller in order to be on the safe side while travelling in the summer? Could there be any problmes with the pump of the R380 gearbox "pushing" the oil through this cooler?
    I really don't know much about the 300Tdi oil cooler, just that it is there, not being used, and very close to the gearbox oil pipe.

    Any ideas will be appreciated.

    By the way, the guy who installed the 2.8TGV engine into my Td5 D110 used the transfer case (or main gearbox?) oil Temperature warning light on the dashboard to indicate when the LOW is engaged. Not sure it was a good idea or not but anyways I have the red warning light turned on in my dashboard when I connect low so in case anyboody wants to know where it is located and what it looks like I can take a picture.
    What I am not sure about is wether this light was functional in the D110 Td5 or if it was "dormant".

    By the way, for those considering the "Roverdrive versus 1.22 ratio" question: the 1.22 ratio is nice for flat roads but not ideal for the Andes. 1st and 2nd gears are too high geared when loaded on steep roads and that is one of the reasons behind going back to the original transfer ratio. 2.8 TGV can cope with it but then the clutch.........suffers.

    Cheers,
    Santiago

  7. #107
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    Hi Santiago,

    I probably wouldn't use the radiator cooler as it will tax the engine radiator/cooling system more, but use stacked plate oil cooler, (Setrab, Mocal, Earls type design) perhaps even mounting it in the space below the radiator support and front crossmember.

    One of the Aussies here is doing a similar thing with his 2.8TGV engined 110 ute (truck cab) but is mounting the heat exchanger up behind the cab, in front of the tray and out of harms way.

    Funny you should pop up, I was just reading a Brazilian forum yesterday (thnkyou Google tanslate, my Portuguese is non existent ) and not many had a kind word to say about the old 2.5HS/300Tdi engine used in the 90/110/Ford Ranger/Merc Sprinter in your part of the world.

    Hope the 2.8 is working out well for you.

  8. #108
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    Hello Rick,
    Yep, I know what you are talking about. The South American version of the 300Tdi, called "Maxxion", is not very famous down here, kind of infamous I should say.
    It equiped several small pickups (Ford Ranger, chevrolet, etc) for several years.
    Apparently it was a cheaper version of the 300Tdi. Most parts are interchangeable, but not all of them, are. And, importantly, many parts are poorer quality than the ones made when the engine was fabricated by Land Rover.

    Fortunately with the 2.8 TGV the story is quite different and it has many improvements over the maxxion (and over the 300 Tdi as well). The engine I have is VERY reliable, cheap and esay to fix, and quite powerful. It is a beauty, especially down here were not every mechanic is capable of dealing with Td5's and Td4's.
    Regarding the oil coooler, do you think that the oil cooler may transfer heat to the water cooler located next doors?

    Fortunately my 300Tdi radiator copes very well with the heat produced by the 2.8. I have read of people having problems in the US with this engine/radiator combo.

    Cheers,
    Stgo

  9. #109
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    Stgo, are you still using the original landrover engine temp gauge?

  10. #110
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    Hi Uninfomred,
    No! The original sucks (I had it in my previous D110 300Tdi)
    I use a VDO.
    It usually runs between 80 and 85 Celsius in the city and exactly 88/89 Celsius in the open road with normal driving (up to 110km/h) and normal temps (up to 30C).
    At higher speeds and higher temperatures (>30C) it may go up to 93C, never more than that.
    What do you think?
    Cheers,
    Santiago

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