Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: Low to high on the move

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,688
    Total Downloaded
    0
    It is quite possible, and is simply routine for anyone who learnt to drive on vehicles without synchromesh.

    I do this routinely both with the 110 and Series. High to low is more difficult, mainly because of the wide gap (and the circumstances you are likely to want to), but is easier and less likely to damage something on the 110 than on Series because low is constant mesh (with sliding gears, only one tooth at a time is engaging, so the loading resulting from mismatched speed is very high - with constant mesh all teeth engage at the same time, so the local loading is a lot lower).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    where every one holidays, sunny coast
    Posts
    1,712
    Total Downloaded
    0
    im with the other lads,,, i go from low - high wile moving, i do it every time i get the boat out the water, but i never go from high to low on the move,

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Garvoc, South West Victoria
    Posts
    685
    Total Downloaded
    0
    In Land Rover's manual for Africa, Working in the Wild, there is a section on the driving procedures for towing when needing to move off in low range and then changing to high range on the move. It is recommended that vehicles fitted with V8s should put the main gearbox into neutral BEFORE changing into high range.

    If the engine is at its operating temperature, or warm enough so that the engine revs drop sharply when you take the foot off the throttle, this method works well. The extra clutching does result in a drop of road and engine speed, but I found this was easily overcome if I drove in low range until I was in 4th gear. I would then clutch and shift the main gear box into neutral, then clutch again to shift the range into neutral, then clutch again to shift into high range, and then again clutch to put the main gearbox into 2nd and then up through the gears to fifth as normal. Yes, it is a lot of extra clutching, but it works without any clunks or crunches, and the progression is smooth.

    LRT

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,681
    Total Downloaded
    0
    There's a factory booklet dating back to the 70s or 80s detailing how to do it.

    But don't try with Maxidrive rockhoppers - the gap is just too much.

    Regards
    Max P
    Last edited by Tusker; 20th October 2011 at 08:51 AM. Reason: typo

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Brookfield Melb. Victoria Australia
    Posts
    527
    Total Downloaded
    0
    What about auto's???

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Tusker View Post
    There's a factory booklet dating back to the 70s or 80s detailing how to do it.

    But don't try with Maxidrive rockhoppers - the gap is just too much.

    Regards
    Max P

    It's also detailed in the late 90's owners handbook too.


    The linkage arrangement is poxy on with the later LT230 t/cases which doesn't help smooth shifting.
    I often go to move the lever and it just sticks, there's too much flex and ******* about of the levers.

    The old sliding gear Dana 20 in my first Jeep was much easier/smoother to shift up and down and the linkage bushes were worn on it.

    Maybe that's a the problem, I shouldn't have installed new bushes in the linkages when i did the clutch 60,000km ago.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Dalby
    Posts
    4,011
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I find it mandatory in the bush to get between low range sections of track. 4th low is too slow so being able to go back to high range without stopping is very handy. Especially if in a group and you can't keep up using 4 low.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Nanny state UK...
    Posts
    3,253
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by LRT View Post
    In Land Rover's manual for Africa, Working in the Wild, there is a section on the driving procedures for towing when needing to move off in low range and then changing to high range on the move. It is recommended that vehicles fitted with V8s should put the main gearbox into neutral BEFORE changing into high range.

    If the engine is at its operating temperature, or warm enough so that the engine revs drop sharply when you take the foot off the throttle, this method works well. The extra clutching does result in a drop of road and engine speed, but I found this was easily overcome if I drove in low range until I was in 4th gear. I would then clutch and shift the main gear box into neutral, then clutch again to shift the range into neutral, then clutch again to shift into high range, and then again clutch to put the main gearbox into 2nd and then up through the gears to fifth as normal. Yes, it is a lot of extra clutching, but it works without any clunks or crunches, and the progression is smooth.

    LRT
    Wot I put is how Land Rover teach it now... You don't need to shift the main gearbox into neutral.

    Double de-clutch the x-fer and shift the lever into Hi at EXACTLY THE SAME TIME as you start dropping the clutch, for the second time and you won't get any crunching.

    M

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Garvoc, South West Victoria
    Posts
    685
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi adonuff, you can change ranges on the move with an automatic transmission.

    Here is an excerpt from the Land Rover Discovery II Owner’s Handbook 1st edition:

    On automatic models, reduce (or increase) the speed of the vehicle to 8km/h and release the accelerator. Select ‘N’ and move the transfer lever quickly to the required ‘H’ or ‘L’ position. Finally, reselect ‘D’ with the main gear selector and continue driving as normal.
    Note: After a little practice, this operation can be carried out smoothly and quickly by using firm, positive moves.

    See pages 98-99 in the Discovery II owners handbook for more information.

    It may take a few weeks of practice to get used to the procedure of changing ranges without any crunching sounds.

    If you experience a loud clang sound when changing from Low to High see the thread below:
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...manual-v8.html

    LRT.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!