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Can I add to this regards radiators,I would not fit an alloy or plastic rad to my vehicle fullstop.Spend the money and fit a copper rad and replace the rubber donuts while your there,I would not run OAT coolant but Extra cool gold Glycol coolant. Pat
I'm in the process of converting to Cummins/Fleetguard PG Platinum which is a hybrid coolant. (already have it in the Patrol, Defender is next after I sort the radiator and the tractor will happen soon too)Quote:
Originally Posted by PAT303
PG Platinum? Heavy Duty Engine Coolant
Easier and cheaper for me to get than OAT and probably less hassles long term.
It's good to see cummins changing from OAT,I'm on my third cummins powered acco and this one has leaks everywhere just like the previous two from perished seals,joints etc.The 500K coolant life is a waste as the coolant will be dropped when the core blocks up long before then,Flush and new Extra cool gold every 12months is the go. Pat
Turns out the bypass hole was blocked last time, radiator guy always does. On the oil pressure issue, I pulled big end bearing no.4 and the whitemetal is worn out, dropped no.4 main cap then and the whitemetal looks thin but not gone. Any tips on replacing the mains? Its the first time I've tried to do mains with the crank still in.
With regards to the mains.
Personally I wouldnt tough a 300tdi mains insitu.
That stinking rear main seal is just too pinickity to upset trying to change out the bearings with-out buggering.
From what Ive seen, the big ends wear much quicker than the mains anyways. So put in new big ends, stitch her up and call it done. Do the mains when you have the donk on an engine stand.
Steve
S
Had me comcerned, must admit. I put a new clutch plate in it in '09 and did the rear main seal then. Quite fond of the way it doesn't leak at present and quite unfond of pulling the gearbox. It was a teflon thing and seemed to have some give but I'll take your word for it. I ordered some new mains and big ends but maybe wise to leave then in the parts cupboard till the motor comes out?
I'm with Steve.Quote:
Originally Posted by roverrescue
I dropped a main cap just for a look-see when i did mine (looked fine) and did it back up and just did the big ends insitu.
I'd put a new spring in the relief valve too, and don't forget a new O ring for the oil pickup when you drop the sump.
Thanks guys, looks like we have a consensus. I put in new oil pump rotors, relief spring and slug, timing belt etc in '09 before the first desert run. Also now I think of it there'll be a heap of sealant on the rear main cap sealing it to the seal plate, won't move too readily. There's still whitemetal coverage on the bottom shell on no.4 where I thought the wear on the mains should be. Big end is only worn on the top shell..