Use a thread chaser(not a tap) to clean the threads,and if you want to be really sure that they don't come undone prematurely,you could drill small holes through the bolt heads and run lock wire through all the bolts:eek:
Printable View
Use a thread chaser(not a tap) to clean the threads,and if you want to be really sure that they don't come undone prematurely,you could drill small holes through the bolt heads and run lock wire through all the bolts:eek:
You really need a jig for that (and they are available or can be made) as it's an absolute b!#& to do in high tensile bolts :(Quote:
Originally Posted by LowRanger
Forgot to mention earlier that some have drilled and tapped to a larger bolt size too.
Quite a few heavier truck axles use tapared collets on the studs. The usual method of removing the axle after loosening the nuts is to belt the end of the axle with a big hammer, that in most cases shocks the collets out of the tapered seats in the axle flange.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tank
Bill.
would a cobolt drill bit do the trick?Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
Pretty sure they are what I used to use and it's still a pain.Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
dont forget to inspect the stub and both sides of the axle.
if the stub is bent the same forces are exerted as a loose wheelbearing except you get a little witness marking around the diff side flange.
I also had experience with this over the weekend. Left rear.
Noticed oil on the outside of the wheel (none on the inside) and the nuts were all loose. Tightened them up and got the vehicle home although the hub was far warmer than the rest of the wheel, which were fine.
How do I go about tightening the bearings? This isn't something I've done before.
Bobby
If the hub is getting hot, either the brake is dragging or the wheel bearing is failing (brake could be dragging because of the loose bearing). Remove the flange + half axle and have a look - if it is an oil lubricated bearing - assumed because you are gettting an oil leak you should see everything nice and oily. Jack up the wheel (chock the fronts, handbrake is ineffective with a back wheel lifted) and try rocking the wheel. Anything more than barely perceptible movement at the outside of the tyre is too much. Spin the wheel. Any roughness means new bearings.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Cone of Silence
To adjust the bearing you need - manual (see Rave CD in "shop" above), hub nut spanner, new lock washer, flange gasket. Book says you need a dial gauge, but this is not necessary, just makes it easier.
John
Thanks John
Bearing is sadly beyond saving. Water and dirt has found its way in there has ruined it, which does explain why it was so hot when I got home on Sunday. :(
I'm not sure what caused the problem in the first place but from now on, every couple of months I'm going to check the nuts.
Pretty sure my Doctor advised me to do the same now I'm in my late 30s ;)
Bobby
Hi,
I bought my D130 new in Melb and had to have a roadworthy in Tas to get it registered.
Up on the hoist the inspector found the FR wheel bearings loose, they hadn't been tightened properly, yet the other three wheels were ok.
cheers