Wiring winch to starter

Quote:

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Originally Posted by muzza99

i have installed a 12000 lb winch to my 130 and used it in a local 4x4 comp last year and had no problems with it running of my stater motor.

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Hi Muzza

You got away with till now, but I would still take it off the starter terminal and run the cable direct to the battery.

The fitting of an isolation switch in the earth cable, so that it's key or handle is with in quick reach of the driver is another important safety issue.

Add; My mistake in writing this post should read, a easy to reach isolation switch in the positive lead between the battery and the winch
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Definate no no!!

Not only should it be on a dedicated cable, you should have an isolator switch and ideally run it from a different battery!!

* Get another battery in that battery box & stick it on a split charge.
* Mount a decent isolator switch in the passenger footwell.
* Run the cable from the +ve, through the isolator and then into the winch.

Yes, it is going to cost a few $$$ but then no-one said that running a winch was cheap... ;)

M

Im not really certain what all the fuss is about.
Your shiny new winch up front is just a glorified starter motor.
The factory cable from main battery to the +ve terminal on OEM starter motor is adequately sized for majority of winching application.
Ensure good clean terminations from starter to winch solenoids and it will be fine.

The +ve terminal on the starter isnt going to care that it has a few hundred amps at it when winch is powering and it wont start a fire unless you poorly junction on the post... which is no different to poorly running a brand new cable all the way to a poorly grommited entrace or a poorly terminated battery connection. If you are worried about a fire then get someone who knows what they are doing to do it.

IF you want to be able to disconnect power from the winch then it may indeed be more simple to run a cable to the battery box. Then in place of any fancy arse switch just leave the +ve lead off the battery until needed.

Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by camel_landy

Definate no no!!

Not only should it be on a dedicated cable, you should have an isolator switch and ideally run it from a different battery!!

* Get another battery in that battery box & stick it on a split charge.
* Mount a decent isolator switch in the passenger footwell.
* Run the cable from the +ve, through the isolator and then into the winch.

Yes, it is going to cost a few $$$ but then no-one said that running a winch was cheap... ;)

M

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It's good practice to winch off your cranking battery actually;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by roverrescue

Im not really certain what all the fuss is about.
Your shiny new winch up front is just a glorified starter motor.
The factory cable from main battery to the +ve terminal on OEM starter motor is adequately sized for majority of winching application.
Ensure good clean terminations from starter to winch solenoids and it will be fine.

The +ve terminal on the starter isnt going to care that it has a few hundred amps at it when winch is powering and it wont start a fire unless you poorly junction on the post... which is no different to poorly running a brand new cable all the way to a poorly grommited entrace or a poorly terminated battery connection. If you are worried about a fire then get someone who knows what they are doing to do it.

IF you want to be able to disconnect power from the winch then it may indeed be more simple to run a cable to the battery box. Then in place of any fancy arse switch just leave the +ve lead off the battery until needed.

Steve

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What he said

Exzaccery Matt,
I would argue its good practice to just run two batts in the box in parrellel and winch of both your main batteries ;)
But then again people like spending money on majik black boxes.

S

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Hi Muzza

You got away with till now, but I would still take it off the starter terminal and run the cable direct to the battery.

The fitting of an isolation switch in the earth cable, so that it's key or handle is with in quick reach of the driver is another important safety issue.

Add; My mistake in writing this post should read, a easy to reach isolation switch in the positive lead between the battery and the winch
.

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Why not just run a 2 core from the solenoid pack and put a little switch in the control supply as opposed to a well underrated isolator in the main cable, bett yet, chuck an in cab switch at the same time

Quote:

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Originally Posted by roverrescue

Exzaccery Matt,
I would argue its good practice to just run two batts in the box in parrellel and winch of both your main batteries ;)
But then again people like spending money on majik black boxes.

S

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That's why ihave dual optimas linked with a solenoid and a 6hp widened free spooled high mount.......sitting on my shed floor:(

I guess sitting on the concrete they will get the same amount of use as if they were bolted onto the 'fender though eh?

S

Quote:

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Originally Posted by roverrescue

IF you want to be able to disconnect power from the winch then it may indeed be more simple to run a cable to the battery box. Then in place of any fancy arse switch just leave the +ve lead off the battery until needed.

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An example of a fancy arse switch, which happens to be the same as the one I installed in my Defender and is quick an easy to use, best of all the switch stops any intelligence challenged idiot, doing things like wrapping the winch cable around a Merc in the car park and then leaving the winch to wind in!!! :eek2:

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