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Only had this set up for a couple of months. A few trips into the glasshouse mountains (a lot of mud) and a trip up the beach in soft sand has seen no problems. Towed a mates Evo1 race car (maybe 1.4tonne inc trailer) with no issues either.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTinnie
And i had to adjust my steering stops to stop the tyres rubbing on the chassis at full lock. Still turns tighter than either my friends 79 series cruiser or TJ jeep, both on 285/75s, so not lost too much.
Why would you want to extend your bumpstops that far that you limit your suspension travel in compression?Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTinnie
I have 35's and a genuine 75mm lift and still I had to trim the guards,because I make use of all the available travel that I can.It isn't just the guards that hit,it will hit the front radius arms,unless the lock stops are adjusted.It can hit the rear spring perch on full compression,this is why you need a large offset.Fitting 35's PROPERLY to a Defender isn't just a matter of fitting some tyres and a 50mm spring lift.It is a whole conglomerate of things that need to be done that all compliment each other to give the proper outcome.There will be people out there that say that is all they have done,but the suspension can't be fully functional with just these mods.
The extensive mods you seem to require will require a LOT of aftermarket parts as LowRanger pointed out. Some actual advice on sourcing all this gear you'll do well to correspond with Devon 4x4 in England. Serious offsets and large tyres needs ammended flares as well as a host of other gear and serious lifts need altered trailing, radius arms, propshafts etc.
These guys build competion trucks for events like the Malaysian Rainforest Challenge and they are very efficient with their international mail order service.
Devon 4x4
yep i understand that's why i'm asking now!
Wayne - limiting travel is to keep the track width legal/engineerable in NSW. any more than 25mm needs an engineer's cert and an engineer will only pass up to a 50mm total increase over the widest avail factory track width. i am also trying to squeeze the 35's on with as little lift as possible. anyone could throw a 3, 4 or 6 inch lift at something and fit 35's on - but getting it cert'd by an engineer is a different question
extending bump stops by however much is necessary would also stop them from hitting the spring perch
think i may need to buy some adjustable bumps!
thanks Lou - i have read a bit on the Devon 4x4 site. the 90 with the Scorpion rear winch bar is what got me thinking to buy a 90 initially
Jusy remember that fitting 35's on a 110 is slightly different to a 90, for one they only have 6" rear springs unlike a 110 which has 7"
This means that I have over 2.5" clearance at ride height between the spring perch and the inside face of my 35/13.5 on -25 wheels - I have never ever had them rub. I also run 33's (255/85/16) on a 0 offset wheel and they have never rubbed either. ( I just went and measured it on the drive)
I also dont run extended bump stops and on my 90 IME they havent been necessary.
On the rear, at full compression, the top layer of paint gets taken off the underside of the lip of the wheel arch (plastic arch removed) and they rub clean the under side of the wheel box reinforcing in a couple of spots.
The front gave more issues, but in terms of straight travel its fine, the issue I had was with full lock and full bump.
I have extended arches fitted, a coule of inches higher up. I used to remove the original ones before driving on the large tyres.
My 35's are huge though (and play tyres only)
Yes I am fully aware of the legalities in NSW,I worked in the trade for over 30 years.But what you are suggesting is basically not going to happen.You will be at you maximum allowable lift (50mm) with just the springs,then you need to take into account the lift caused by the change in tyre size.and then with only 50mm lift you WILL have the tyres fouling somewhere when the suspension is cycled through its full motion,including when the front wheels are on full lock.And any fouling is an automatic failure as far as engineering goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTinnie
Also when the vehicle is engineered it is driven and given a "swerve" test,extending bump stops that far that they inhibit the travel of the suspension,can and will affect the way that the vehicle handles during the "swerve" test.
To clear 35's ,you will need to trim the guards and add wider flares,and you will then require at least 50mm spring lift.35x10.5r 16's will give you a bit more clearance than 35x 12.5r 16's but are much harder to find.
The easiest way to engineer 35's on a Defender is to fit Portals,but the cost to most is prohibitive.
Some of us have been through all these processes over a long period of time,unfortunately it is now harder than ever to get things through engineering,down to the point that there are now fewer people doing the testing.
The problem when trying to fit 35's on a Defender and "keeping it legal" is the fact that you need to add so much offset in the rims,to allow the tyres to clear both the suspension and the body,through the suspensions full motion.It would be ok if they made 35" cheese cutters,but unfortunately 35's are inherently wide.
The best size tyre for a Defender,I think is 255/85/16 which is 33",which presents no problems.
Having said that,I love my 35's,but I had to be prepared to do all the mods properly that allowed everything to work the way they should.
thanks Wayne. so could you theoretically go up to -45mm offset then? (which would be 50mm additional track width than the saw tooth/steel option) to clear them? - that's if a rim exists greater than -25mm offset?!?!?
50mm total lift is the maximum lift without sign off isn't it? if i am going to have to cert the additional track & additional lift that restriction wouldn't apply i thought
i'd be keen to check your defender out @ 75mm lift to see the bits that scrub
is no bumps and rubbing with the 90 with 13.5 wide 35's or the 33's? 13.5 is crazy! 33's that wide would be enough IMOQuote:
Originally Posted by Psimpson7
PeteQuote:
Originally Posted by Psimpson7
I realise that the rear springs on a 90 are only 6" and while you may have 2.5" of clearance at ride height,when you cycle the suspension,particularly in crossover situations where the wheels tend to walk forward/backward,the clearance is very minimal at best, and what most people don't take into account,is that the higher you raise the suspension,the more the spring perches come into calculations.As far as just touching the lips and underside of the wheel arch is concerned,that is an automatic failure for engineering purposes.And I agree that the fronts are more of a problem.To save all the problems I think it is easier to just run the 255/85/16's as an everyday tyre and run the 35's when out playing.
Which is what I was saying earlier.
Trying to get it engineered in NSW will be very costly.
I have followed the evolution of your 90 up to its present state,and I must say "I like it" ;)Like it a lot as a matter of fact.:D
How do you like the underdrive?I have just fitted mine,but haven't had a chance to drive it:(