Thread: Life of Puma Rear Diff's

Time will tell Babs if the 2.2's are set up better than the 2.4's. But given yours has a P38 diff in it the same as the 2.4, then yes.

As others have said it's possible to get good life out of a P38. But due to design flaws, if you tow, or drive a lot with weight than it can become problematic.

For me I've spent enough building this thing to be a remote long haul tourer, a few more bucks on bomb proofing the diff ****es me off, but it's a long term keeper.

My 2.2 130 delivered Feb 202 had the growling rear diff replaced (warranty)after 3000km
This would indicate the problem has not been addreses in the later models

Originally Posted by Babs

Hey Guys,


Is this diff problem still an issue with the 2.2 puma's?

The diff is the same as the 2.4 and P38A, so retains the same inherent problems (See Dave/Ian Ashcroft's (username = Ashtrans) comprehensive post on the topic on here).

Originally Posted by isuzurover

The diff is the same as the 2.4 and P38A, so retains the same inherent problems (See Dave/Ian Ashcroft's (username = Ashtrans) comprehensive post on the topic on here).

where?

while the design is not the greatest, IMO it seems the biggest problem is the R&P set up from factory. If this is seen to, good oil used and regular maintainence is applied then it should serve most users...

If it makes you warm and fuzzy to change it out, by all means

Originally Posted by Naks

where?

Read back through this thread, about page 4

Originally Posted by Naks

where?

Let me google that for you

In my old discovery I used some of those teflon additives in the diffs and transfer case (eg Nulon, Repco, etc) and towed a lot, did around 250K before upgrading to PUMA. Now with 70K am contemplating doing the same.
Has anyone used with any appreciable improvement or longevity results? (even anecdotally it seemed to work for the disco as my bro-in-law changed his diffs on similar model Tdi Disco at 150K!)