Thread: Life of Puma Rear Diff's

Originally Posted by modman

"If both housings would need reinforcing, is there any advantage of a 110/130 axle with the Ashcroft centre over reinforcing and building up a standard 90/Disco rear with all aftermarket internals?

Just thinking through the ideal rear to replace a Salsbury without going to custom made stuff."

Why do you want to get rid if the sals??
Dc

havent you heard modman, all the sals are going to fail at any moment, the tubes pulling from the cast center....

Originally Posted by ashtrans

Hi Josh,

glad you are pleased with it,

they have turned out quite well, easy enough to build and straight forward to fit,

I think I will get another batch of parts ordered up, this first batch is only 20 and nearly half have sold mainly from this thread, I haven't had a chance to put them on our website yet !

Dave

I knew they'd be a great seller. I think you'll sell many more into the future too considering all the new defenders have the p38 diffs. Thanks again.

Originally Posted by uninformed

havent you heard modman, all the sals are going to fail at any moment, the tubes pulling from the cast center....

Just like all the P38's are going to break as soon as you go offroad . Pat

Originally Posted by PAT303

Just like all the P38's are going to break as soon as you go offroad . Pat

I think there are only 3 P38's that go off road........oh, you are referring to the diff not the RR

Originally Posted by zkdaz

So the Ashcroft replacement casting and CW&P allows you to build up a rear much stronger than the stock P38 style centre, but how does it compare to the standard (long nose) rover design?

Does the low pinion hypoid design make it stronger forwards at the expense of being weaker in reverse like Toyota fronts, or is that just the cut of the gear teeth?

Do people think the 110/130 axle housing is strong enough (resistance to bending) for long term, fully loaded touring/overland use? Or does it really need reinforcing like the UK MOD HD axles (Wolf/Snatch) to run constant heavy loads?

If both housings would need reinforcing, is there any advantage of a 110/130 axle with the Ashcroft centre over reinforcing and building up a standard 90/Disco rear with all aftermarket internals?

Just thinking through the ideal rear to replace a Salsbury without going to custom made stuff.

Dan

The all else being equal, material tooth thickness, etc, the hypoid tooth will be stronger than the spiral bevel (rover R&P) tooth, because of the greater tooth width.

Both hypoid and spiral bevel gears are stronger in one direction than the other, so the strong direction is used for the more heavily loaded rear diff and the reverse direction is used for the front diff, except when reverse cut gears are used for the front.

The problem with the landcruiser front diff, is that it is undersize for the duty, it has nothing to do with being hypoid.

Going from what I have seen here, I would expect the Ashcroft hypoid R&P, for a p38 diff, to be stronger than a rover 8.5" R&P. I don't know if the diameter of a p38 ring gear is larger or same as a rover ring gear, but either way it should be stronger.

"haven't you heard modman, all the sals are going to fail at any moment, the tubes pulling from the cast center.... "

My gps avoids bus loads of nuns so my sals should last
I'm reading way to much pirate these days
Dc

Originally Posted by modman

Why do you want to get rid if the sals??
Dc

Not sure if I do want to replace the Sals, but I want to be sure there isn't a better option before committing to a disc conversion, locker, half-shafts, etc.

Lots of better options, but it depends upon your definition of better.