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Thread: Defender Engine Bay Heat - LH guard vent

  1. #1
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    Defender Engine Bay Heat - LH guard vent

    I remember seeing a picture on the forum of a Defender with a vent cut unto the left hand guard behind the wheel arch to provide an exit for hot air from the engine bay, but for the life of me I can't find it again.

    I believe member uniformed has done the mod. Has anyone else? Does anyone have any pictures, or information on the vent used to cover the hole?


    Thanks in advance,
    James.

  2. #2
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    Yep, Serg did it and it works.

    I keep saying I'll do it to but haven't got around to it yet.

    [edit]Here's a pic.


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Yep, Serg did it and it works.

    I keep saying I'll do it to but haven't got around to it yet.

    [edit]Here's a pic.

    OK what is Serg's username?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    OK what is Serg's username?
    uninformed

  5. #5
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    A mate of Sergio's who has a 200Tdi as his farm vehicle no longer uses that position for the air intake but it still has the grille in place.
    Serg could reach down and feel the air coming out and reckons the flow of hot air coming out at @ 40km/h is pretty high, so he was sold on the idea.

    His engine temp at high load/speed dropped slightly too after doing the mod, if he chimes in he can tell you by how much.

    This was after we'd tossed the idea around for a few years as IMO GU Patrols suffer from a similar problem re exhausting the air from the engine bay.

  6. #6
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    yep thats mine. It has worked a treat. As Rick had said, we had talked about the engine bay heat, and his findings were that bonnet vents or gaurd top vents no good for exit air. My mates truck runs these on both sides and it runs VERY cool. Mind you he has modded his truck alot, has more room in his engine bay by rearanging the ancilaries etc. His vent holes act as a double feature. If he needs to work on the side of his engine, he simply removes the vents and this gives him access to his guard/wing nuts (he changed his bolts to stud so the pannel can be offered up to them and rest on them, rather than the dumb idea of jugle the guard and bolt by himself) his gaurds can come of in about 5 mins.

    While driving around his property from 0-50/60km hr I was able to reach out and feel the hot air flowing out of the left hand guard (turbo side of coarse)

    My 2.8tgv is making more power so more heat, my cooling system is in very good condition and I am running a 82c stamped thermostat. In most normal conditions on the Gold Coast, it runs at 89-91 on a VDO gauge. Now with the hole cut it will sit on 83-85 around town and 89 on the HWY.

    taking into consideration ambieant temp and humidity and watching the gauge very closely before and after the hole was cut, it now has just that little more buffer for temp and seems to drop quicker when load is reduced.

    I did find that putting the grill on the hole added 1c to the range, but this still lower than before the hole was cut at all.

    I would make the hole the same shape but go down a little further (will help with guard bolts)

    I think someone mentioned that wire grill would flow better than perforated sheet (but thats what I had)

    The only downside I can see is maybe in deep water crossings....but I havent tried so dont know if water wants to pour in there (I doubt with forward motion it will want to, but sometimes a water crossing becomes a forward-stop-reverse action.....)

  7. #7
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    over to you rainman.........

  8. #8
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    Just to add, my truck was a 300tdi so intake is on the drivers side, I just cut the hole myself on the left side. I marked it out and used hole saws for the radius corners then a 1mm cutting disc in a grinder for the straight cuts. Cleaned it up with a die grinder. I used some 2-3mm perforated sheet, but I put a 20mm wide band of 2mm flat plate around the perimeter to make it and the now cut pannel more ridged. I think they call the bolts water tank or tank bolts, they have a proportianly larger head for shank size, are domed with philips. Most places will only have zinc, but I lucked out and got stainless. I used zinc nuts and welded them to the back of the grill. Plastic washers under the bolt heads. Even though the grill is bigger than the hole, it is very easy to remove and refit. They grill was cleaned and etched primed, then coated with high temp black (K&H)

    My mates truck now has his air intake ontop of the grill where the heater/vent normally collects......LR should have done it this way. He also removed the airfilter housing from the engine and mounted it over at the intake point...His words are it now wont get the crap shaken out of it by the motor.

  9. #9
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    Nice work Serg. Only just saw this thread.

  10. #10
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    Yep, he did a nice job.

    Those wheels look good too

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