Printable View
If budget was of no importance there would always be better products out there and there are guys out there willing to pay those prices. The idea for the rest of us mere mortals would be to find a practical medium and the TF's would be that.Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyD
it horses for courses really.
If you want a lift than any suspension will do that. But ask it carry a good load over corrugations for hour upon hour, and maybe for several weeks, and then maybe year after year than one can expect some fading and replacement to happen on various brands.
It's also Asian made verse German and Dutch made. Chuck it or Repair it.
In the case for Koni 90 series I read a report that spanned over 3 years and 150 000km of corrugations on Australia's best inland tracks. He wanted to get them serviced and was advised not to bother. He was told they hold that much oil, and run at low temperatures the oil doesn't heat up enough to perish anything. This tour operator checks his quite regularly and found them never to be over 75deg, and as well carries all the crap for the tour.
He drive a Defender 130.
It also depends if the car is a 2, 5, 10+ year keeper, and yes budget.
But when I look at Jap spring sets and shocks like ironman, rancho, and the like, all of which are imported by someone else all coming in around $1300 to $1500. Or $1850 in OME's case. Then I think getting a Defender set up with something that is awesome for $1600 and importing it myself is great value.
If Koni 82 's or Bilstein were to substitute the 90 series, then you can save $600 . These figures are all import from US for shocks, with LRA springs.
I like to support Aus, and by god I have, but why on earth would someone pay $2500 when they can pay $1100 for the cost of a phone call.
just my 10c
Another Update,
Fitted the following Terrafirma gear the other day:
- Medium +2inch Lifted Springs Front and Rear
- Pro Sport +2inch Travel Front Shocks
- Big Bore +2inch Travel Rear Shocks (These are huge!)
- Front and Rear Heavy Duty Spring Retainers
- Front and Rear Dislocation Cones
First I must say the on road handling quality has increased significantly. Small bumps are soaked up well, there is a little more body roll, both nothing silly. I've also done a little offroad work (one decent hole) and the articulation is very impressive. Looking forward to a long trip :)
We were not sure if we would need the Dislocation cones, however once we installed the Springs and Shocks it was obvious they were required. The difference in downward travel is pretty impressive. Could just imagine what a +5 shock is like...
Ride Height (Bump Stop Clearances):
+ Original (Puma, 2007 Onwards [Source is a LR Document I found on this site]):
- Front = 72 +- 15mm
- Rear = 130 +- 15mm
+ Genuine HD (when fitted, With everything that I can pull out of car out)
- Front = 115mm = 33m Lift = 1.7 Inch
- Rear = 107mm = -23mm Lift = -0.9 Inch
+ Now (With everything that I can pull out of car out)
- Front = 105mm = 33m Lift = 1.3 Inch
- Rear = 130mm = 0mm Lift = 0 Inch
Even without any rear lift the car sits perfectly level at least. I'm just picturing the bottom lowering slowly once I load up the car.
Terrafirma suggest the Medium Springs will give 'around' a 2 Inch lift with 300kg in the rear, I must be at lest 50kg short of this and have zero lift.
Now I wondering how I can raise the rear a bit more...
- Should I fit higher rate springs? The Terrafirma Mediums are 300lbf/in and 435mm long. The HD's are 420lbf/in and 435mm long. I'm concerned that these will reduce articulation because they are too heavy. It is worth noting that the rates/length of TF springs and associated load rating are similar to most other manufactures. Any one had any experience?
- Should I just fit some spacers? 20mm? 30mm? and be done with it? Will this impact on offroad articulation much?
- Should I do as many suggest and put some airbags in? I've always steered clear of this because it adds complexity and my load doesn't vary much.
...Or am I missing something? :p
Thanks All,
Scott
Jason, i would recommend doing the DC front shaft even if your only lifting 1in, or atleast scalloping out some indents in the flange for more clearance as per the earlier prop shafts, they bind with even the slightest increase in angle. Mine was noisy from brand new because of the HD springs, after playing with the air suspensios i found even at the stock ride height of a new 110 on standard springs there was a slightly noise at 100-110 when coasting with the clutch in.
With my new custom DC shaft with 1350 uni's i can run up to 6in lift without noise... handling goes out the window but no bind on the shafts, i have been running around 2-4in lift most of the time depending on what i am doing
I tried the nylon type type spacers on the 90 with relocation cones and found it doesn't work. The spring just would not reseat correctly. TerraQuote:
Originally Posted by ScottyD
Firma do make a spacer that fits to the bottom of the spring, This may work.Terrafirma Spring spacers | Suspension - Hardware Accessories for ...
Allan
I'm really confused now, after reading a billion posts on what size coils and so on.
I have just fitted a camper body to a 09' 110 ute which is heavy and have the following distance between diff and bump stops:
Front drivers side:55mm
Front passenger side: 70mm
both rears: 90mm.
The thing rolls around like a drunk on the Queen Mary. (me).
I'm not a 4wd nut. just want to tow my tinnie with camper on up to Frazer and other beaches, so there will be long hauls on major Hwys and good dirt roads.
I would like a nice ride, but be able to handle the weight also.