When I got my towbar, it was boxed with the tongue and the electricals. so the price quoted may be for the same, not just the towbar.
Cheers
KarlB
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My dealer hasnt gotten back to me with a price yet. . . Starting to become rather disapointed in tehre after sales service :(
Looks like I may end up calling one of the dealers mentioned and asking if they could ship me the towbar. . .
On another note, still waiting on a reply from Mantec regarding there winch bumper and snorkel :( Seems none wants my buisiness.. . .
I noticed on one of the posted pictures it states 'only for towing', so my question is; could you safely use it for recoveries?
(Obviously using a recovery hitch and NOT the tow ball.)
I can't see why not since it's secured to the chassis, maybe upgrade the bolts, or is the bar itself not strong enough?
Purely to indemnify themseves...
No vehicle manufacturer will condone or approve high energy recovery (snatching).
The OEM towbar is rated at 3.5 ton and does the job fine...
just to clarify, you do not need to order RAA623 and RAA624, RAA623 is the complete kit for $450. (vs $450 + $134 for the tongue on it's own)
from Artarmon (Sydney) Land Rover:
"The kit RAA623 comes complete with wiring (7 pin flat connector) & the tongue (RAA624). I have had a look & RAA621 is no longer available from LandRover, there isn’t even any price on their system now. The best I can do for RAA623 is $450.00 inc gst.
regards
Tony Mutch – Parts Interpreter[IMG]file:///C:/Users/AMCCOR%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image002.jpg[/IMG]
tmutch@alto.com.au
D |02 8817 7858
"
Thanks,
Once my Tax money comes in ill order the part,
I take it its rather straight foward to install beeing a genuine LR part? just bolts on?
I don't mind doing the Wiring just dont want to drill holes or weld anything.
I got mine a few weeks ago and fitted it myself in a few hours. Only drama I had is that the kit came with a 7-pin flat trailer light socket and the mounting holes for it did not align with the holes in the bracket for it. It didn't worry me too much as I simply bought a 7-pin round socket and a ready made bracket and fitted that instead. The best thing I did though was instal the trailer wiring extension loom that plugs into the "hidden" socket in the drivers side rear quarter panel behind the rear wheel:thumbsup:. Sure beats trying to solder into the cramped space or using those horrible crimp blade connectors.
The only real disappointment was that the price I paid seems ridiculously high compared to what some of you are suggesting they can be bought for. I see some quoting $450 or $460 while got stung $538:bat:! Southern Land Rover were friendly to deal with though ... smiled the whole time ... even carried it out to the car for me and waved me off. They must have found it difficult to suppress the laughter until I'd turned at the end of the driveway.
It comes with the kit! Buy RAA623 from any dealer. That's all you need.
I don't understand why ppl have said "I don't do electricals" etc when it's so easy. Remove RHS Rear wheel, remove black plastic with 2 screws from memory and Plug it in the socket, simple.
If you have paid someone to install for you, sorry but you have been ripped off! Most dealers ( outside of LR) do a terrible job at it anyway poorly splicing straight into the tail light or even getting it wrong completely. I had park/number plate light come on instead of brakes from the Jeep factory :eek:
here is the trailer socket, looking up into the RHS rear wheel arch towards the Rear Fog light (blue plug) and indicator. ignore the earth, was the thickest gauge wire i could find to tap into constant 12v (also on the same loom) while i was in there.