Traction control

Just to clarify matters a bit...

My Puma 90 has never been bogged in sand to such an extend that I needed to accept a tow or any assistance for that matter :D

Correct tyre pressure and a superbly capable vehicle ensures that. THe discussion about the TC was regarding its reaction and functionality on very long dunes in excess of 30 degrees incline. When there is no grip left a non-TC vehicle will continue to spin and either spin it's way to the top or bury itself.

I have personally found that on very steep, long and soft dunes as is found around the far north of Perth the TC has a tendency to bleed momentum when grip fails and will stop and stall the car rather than let it bury itself. This is not a bad thing as recovery can be done safely without anyone needing to dig near the back of a vehicle stopped on an incline.

Writing about it is not a critisism of the car or the system, but merely sharing experience with fellow Puma owners.

My inquiry is not a critisism either.
Besides asking how they perform I was also wondering if the TC could be turned off or disabled because I was thinking that it is an electronic device. So, is the TC electronics bullet proof, will it never fail, if it does, will it go into fault mode and immobilise the vehicle, requiring a dealer with a black box to reset it ?
From your replys it seems that you can remove the TC fuse, so it seems that a failure wont leave you stuck waiting for a flat bed. Or do you have to pull the fuse before a failure ?
I like to know these things.
Mental preparedness in the scrub is just as important as carrying a spare hose or fuse and a roll of fencing wire, eh.

Cheers.

Robert.

PS: these inquiries are just that and have no bearing on whether or not I would own one.
Every boy should have at least one Defender in his life, eh.

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Originally Posted by olbod

So, is the TC electronics bullet proof, will it never fail, if it does, will it go into fault mode and immobilise the vehicle, requiring a dealer with a black box to reset it ?

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TC/ABS failure results in those functions being disabled, not the vehicle being immobilised.

The capability to deal with ABS troubleshoot and repair requires access to a diagnostic tool, but it's been a while since that demanded a visit to a Dealer.

The original Nanocom was released in 2008 and the Bearmach Hawkeye followed shortly afterwards in 2009. Both tools will give you the ability to work on the electronic systems including ABS. Not sure if these cover the latest siemens systems.

https://blackbox-solutions.com/shop/...OM%20EVOLUTION

http://www.bearmach.com/downloads/Di...pp_pages_d.pdf

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Originally Posted by OffTrack

TC/ABS failure results in those functions being disabled, not the vehicle being immobilised.

The capability to deal with ABS troubleshoot and repair requires access to a diagnostic tool, but it's been a while since that demanded a visit to a Dealer.

The original Nanocom was released in 2008 and the Bearmach Hawkeye followed shortly afterwards in 2009. Both tools will give you the ability to work on the electronic systems including ABS. Not sure if these cover the latest siemens systems.

https://blackbox-solutions.com/shop/...OM%20EVOLUTION

http://www.bearmach.com/downloads/Di...pp_pages_d.pdf

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Thanks.
I will be checking it all out regards the diagnostic software available, including as a last resort, what the dealer uses and if that stuff is portable.
If this stuff was portable, I would make it available to all those in reach and in need. Thats what Landy folk do, eh.

Robert.

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Originally Posted by olbod

Thanks.
I will be checking it all out regards the diagnostic software available, including as a last resort, what the dealer uses and if that stuff is portable.
If this stuff was portable, I would make it available to all those in reach and in need. Thats what Landy folk do, eh.

Robert.

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The Nanocom and Hawkeye cover what the dealer systems are capable of in terms of reading codes and realtime information, plus altering settings. Where they lack is the dealer systems computer assisted diagnosis.

There is a used dealer system on eBay at the moment with bidding starting at $2000. It consists of a laptop, interface, cabling and software. The Nanocom and Hawkeye are in the range of $500-700 new.

Where the small hand held units are great is that they are small and will fit in a glovebox or centre console. You'll find most owners consider part of their traveling tool kit.

Many members have Nanocom's and Hawkeye's and are happy to assist other members, but as always the more, the merrier.

cheers
Paul

I have the T.C. switchable on our TD5 90 because someone told me it was needed for sand driving, debateable I have found out since, but on the Puma 110 I haven’t bothered. I did a lot of soft sand driving in the Puma just north of Coral Bay and boat launching of the beach at Middle Lagoon in the Kimberley’s and at no time found any problems with it, in fact it was almost unstoppable. As many have said, tyre pressure and getting used to the vehicle and the T.C. makes all the difference. I have an air locker in the rear diff and have never used it thus far, should have spent the money on something else. I did consider fitting a switch to this vehicle also but have thus far not found a need to and I am not sure if by doing so it will register a code every time I use it.


Allan

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Originally Posted by Allan

As many have said, tyre pressure and getting used to the vehicle and the T.C. makes all the difference.

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Indeed, and correct gear ratio to achieve required momentum also makes all the difference in sand.

At a LR-sponsored sand driving course, the instructor told me to engage low range, as he was used to the Td5.

I kept getting bogged down during the first part of the course when others were flying up the dunes. As a rule everyone was down to 1 bar pressure, so it wasn't that.

I then took it out of low range and with some experimentation found that in these particular conditions, 3rd high was the optimum gear.

So play around until you find the optimum gear ratio for the particular conditions you find yourself dealing with :)

Hi guys,
I spoke to my LR service manager about pulling the fuse on the ABS or installing a switch to deactivate the TC. He told me it would definately bring up a code fault. It may not disable the vehicle but would need to be reset by the dealer.Cheers

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Originally Posted by Naks

Indeed, and correct gear ratio to achieve required momentum also makes all the difference in sand.

At a LR-sponsored sand driving course, the instructor told me to engage low range, .................................................. ...

I then took it out of low range and with some experimentation found that in these particular conditions, 3rd high was the optimum gear.

So play around until you find the optimum gear ratio for the particular conditions you find yourself dealing with :)

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Momentum is everything when crossing dunes. As for low range, perhaps the instructor meant 'use low 4th' . This is my favourite gear for sand dunes as the gearbox is connected straight through (no gearing) at 1:1 ratio, so little chance of busting any of its internals.

Deano:)

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Originally Posted by sooly

Hi guys,
I spoke to my LR service manager about pulling the fuse on the ABS or installing a switch to deactivate the TC. He told me it would definately bring up a code fault. It may not disable the vehicle but would need to be reset by the dealer.Cheers

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Yep, its that need to be reset by the dealer bit that I want to dispence with !!!
Not just with regard to the TC and ABS question but with any other situation within the new Defender that would leave one stuck in the Simpson needing a dealer to reset the thing.

I know nothing about the new Defender electronics so I am none the wiser
about how much there is on board that might immobilise the vehicle.

When you travel on your own you need to be self sufficient !!

Cheers.

Robert.