Defender 90 in Salt water environment

Anyone put ERPS couplertec systems on their landy? wondered how well it works on the chassis and alloy bodywork??

Ted44. All electronic rust protection units are the biggest cons after Hilcone and Fuel Magnets. You will be paying $500+ for a blinking light. And most of these ERP units warranties are 5 years from a new vehicle. Most cars new have a 4-6 year rust free period, and should not really rust for years anyway.

A good washing and spary of Lanotec or Inox or fish oil is a good prevention tool.

I've been told that these sparys trap moisture under rustproofing and chassis. And knowing all to well the mines and surf lifesavers use ERP units, rembering that they buy new and get rid of the car after 30,000 kms.


Josh

I dont recommend Waxoil in my experience, as unless the metal is bare and 100% dry (neigh on impossible) there will be moisture trapped underneath it. This in turn leads to it rusting from the inside out.

I have always used new engine oil/gear oil mix sprayed on every 6/12 months using one of those cheap aldi shot blasting guns.

This can breath and while messy for a few days stops rust in its tracks and if theres salt/sand involved will make it alot easier to maintain.

I lived in Ireland (right next door to the sea)/Scotland (where they salt the roads for 6 months of the year) and had no problems with rust.

H

I must admit that I had my Waxoil done professionaly in the UK and the guys used a water dispersant used by the RAF on their ship borne Harrier jets before applying the Waxoil. As I said, they offered a 5 year waranty on rust re-appearing and when I sold my car 3 years after the treatment, the buyer who was a long time Landie owner, did all the rust finding tricks in the book and there was none...

But by adding oil or diesel to the chassis arnt you creating a chance of a fire hazard? Being that both are flamable.

Google "Flamable" and "Flash Point" :)

Some "flamables" have a flashpoint just above that of water... OK that's a serious exageration, but some oils are so inert that you have go to some serious effort to get it to burn.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

Rustproof - lanolin, fishoil etc on a regular (6 monthly) basis, and spray anything you don't rustproof with rp7 (or similar) weekly.

I was at a govt auction a few years back and there was a 2 year old LC troopy and a 2 year old 130 Defender. Both had spent 2 years on moreton island (could tell from log books).

The LC had a badly pitted rear axle housing - half-marble size chunks of rust falling off. The chassis and body were quite good.

The 130 on the other hand, looked fine externally, but you could grab the chassis and come away with a handfull of rust. I wouldn't have trusted it to drive out of the auction yard without snapping the chassis, yet the LC could probably have done the big lap.

In short - LR's are great at rusting away like crazy from underneath while they look fine, and the box section chassis don't drain water, mud and salt as well as others.

Rustproof often!

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What's the best way to clean the box sections? I use a Gerny but there is always Sand coming out of the back of her in the following months!