Thread: Defender 90 in Salt water environment

Ted44. All electronic rust protection units are the biggest cons after Hilcone and Fuel Magnets. You will be paying $500+ for a blinking light. And most of these ERP units warranties are 5 years from a new vehicle. Most cars new have a 4-6 year rust free period, and should not really rust for years anyway.

A good washing and spary of Lanotec or Inox or fish oil is a good prevention tool.

I've been told that these sparys trap moisture under rustproofing and chassis. And knowing all to well the mines and surf lifesavers use ERP units, rembering that they buy new and get rid of the car after 30,000 kms.


Josh

I dont recommend Waxoil in my experience, as unless the metal is bare and 100% dry (neigh on impossible) there will be moisture trapped underneath it. This in turn leads to it rusting from the inside out.

I have always used new engine oil/gear oil mix sprayed on every 6/12 months using one of those cheap aldi shot blasting guns.

This can breath and while messy for a few days stops rust in its tracks and if theres salt/sand involved will make it alot easier to maintain.

I lived in Ireland (right next door to the sea)/Scotland (where they salt the roads for 6 months of the year) and had no problems with rust.

H

I must admit that I had my Waxoil done professionaly in the UK and the guys used a water dispersant used by the RAF on their ship borne Harrier jets before applying the Waxoil. As I said, they offered a 5 year waranty on rust re-appearing and when I sold my car 3 years after the treatment, the buyer who was a long time Landie owner, did all the rust finding tricks in the book and there was none...

But by adding oil or diesel to the chassis arnt you creating a chance of a fire hazard? Being that both are flamable.

Google "Flamable" and "Flash Point"

Some "flamables" have a flashpoint just above that of water... OK that's a serious exageration, but some oils are so inert that you have go to some serious effort to get it to burn.