Thread: Door lock problem

I don't know what you're driving Jeff, but I've had success solving similar issues by squirting a teflon spray into the key entry point. The stuff dries to an extremely slippery powdery coating on the innards if you work the key around as well as in and out while it's wet. I got my first can from a locksmith, but now get it from the local mechanic. It's good for lots of things.It's called PTFE and it's made by Anglomoil at Mt Kuring-gai
Don.

I just lube locks with wd40......a good squirt will also flush out any dust/dirt that may be in there.....

oily stuff in a lock will attract dust and grit, and the lock will wear out quicker. Best to keep the innards dry.The older method is to put graphite powder into it, but it's very messy black stuff.
Don.

Yep.....that's true.....I know about that......
But the graphite powder won't clean out the gunk that's already in there causing it to play up in the first place.......

I don't think it is the tumblers, I have cleaned and lubed them before. It feels more like the linkages.

Jeff

are the actual internal door lock buttons free to move up and down.......?
the back bezel comes loose and they jam up......

Had same problem. You will have to remove the door trim and have a look. On mine, I found that the linkages had a plastic 'elbow' to restrict movement at the intersection of two arms of the linkage. My plastic 'elbow' had broken off and was at the bottom of the door and the linkage had doubled back on itself. I just pushed the join back to the right position and figured I would fix it later, which I didn't. That was about three years ago and its been right ever since. If it happens again I'll know what to do.

In my defender, SWMBO's door could be unlocked from the inside but not the outside so I got on and had a look behind the door trim to find that the $1.50 linkage was missing altogether!
A call to LinnRover here in WA and a few hours later, the problem has been fixed.