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hey tim, those voltages seem to be heaps better - 14.49 when running and 13ish when not seems perfect. keep checking periodically though.
still cant see how you were getting 20V????!!!!
I dont know how those old solinoids work but it might be worth a look. maybe getting it out and checking the switching on a test bench.
To test the trailer aux, google a 'pinout' of a trailer socket and continuity test the AUX pin to ground/chassis. You should have High resistance: OL or Mohms or Kohms.
Matt
Those are much better voltages now test your solenoid to se if it is open and closed when it should be or if it has shorted:) you may have given it a heart attack when the car went over:(
How do I go about testing a solenoid?? I'm learning all this as I go...
Surely if it doesn't drain overnight, then it's not my solenoid, it's whatever was on the circuit that I pulled the 60A fuse out of?
physically follow the wiring then! wire capable of carrying 60A is going to stick out from the factory harness
Test the soleniod by puting a meter across the main terminals (the ones the battery connects to) and puting power to the smaller terminals and see you should get 0 ohms when no power and 1.00 or ol when powered you should also hear and feel the soleniod opening and closing as power is put to it:)
does yours look like this
DUAL BATTERY ISOLATOR SOLENOID - EASY TO DIY 100AMP ABR | eBay
Looks similar. Not sure if it's an exact match though. I do hear the solenoid click when I hook up one of the batteries. Could it still do that if it was buggered?
I think the concerns with the solinoid are more to do with the higher voltages you were getting.
I'm sure that we've nailed the excessive current draw to whatever is connected to that fuse. Just a matter of finding what that circuit does. ideas anyone? We have looked at the circuit diagram in the workshop manual but it isn't clear to me. Test the trailer socket Tim.
I don't know how those solinoids operate so that's why I would pull it out of the car and play with it. If anyone has a link or instructions on how they work it would be great.
Wish I didn't have work tonight. Won't be able to look at the car again until tomorrow. :(
change the battery in your multimeter and put it up against a known reference voltage.
19v is bad...
way too high for 12V systems way too low for 24V.
I cant work out which sequence youve used to number the fuses but heres the break out.
Attachment 48180
The engine bay fusable links
Attachment 48182
Attachment 48183
the fuse box in the firewall cover.
