LED Replacement Defender headlights

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Originally Posted by BadCo.

You don't need LED Headlights to get good light output (I personally don't like the colour of LEDs, why hell you want to mimic daylight colour is beyond me), a traxide kit, Wipac Crystal Headlights and some good globes makes a world of difference.

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Thanks... I've ordered the Traxide kit. I've already got the good phillips bulbs in there.. so I'll report back as to how much difference an extra 2v makes at the bulb. Crossed fingers should be good.

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Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot

Thanks... I've ordered the Traxide kit. I've already got the good phillips bulbs in there.. so I'll report back as to how much difference an extra 2v makes at the bulb. Crossed fingers should be good.

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It's a combination of all three, if you have good lamps and good power but poo reflectors you are still going to get bad light spread.

PM678 | Wipac Crystal Halogen Headlamp Conversion Kit (pair) - left hand dip (UK and Australia) - Paddock Spares

If you are converting from sealed beam then you might need half bowls.

FWIW, I installed a Defender Traxide headlight and driving light kit (had it left over from my previous 90) on a GQ Patrol with Narva reflectors + globes. The output difference and beam cutoff were significantly better. Well worth the upgrade and a great piece of kit.

I'll be ordering another kit for my new 90 sometime soon. [thumbsupbig]

Oh My Deity Of Choice! Just finished the traxide update. Unbelievable. Can't wait to take the car out at night - but even in the day it's incredible!

What a miracle an extra 2v at the front makes. [bigsmile]

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Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot

Oh My Deity Of Choice! Just finished the traxide update. Unbelievable. Can't wait to take the car out at night - but even in the day it's incredible!

What a miracle an extra 2v at the front makes. [bigsmile]

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It's nearly dark......

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Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot

My biggest problem with the whole system... is my light bar is driven by a relay and is plenty bright. However when you have an oncoming car and you have to dip the beam it's like you are plunging down a mineshaft with a miners lamp. So I'm not chasing high beam.. more low beam.

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This is why I don't run any spotlights or light bars... if you're using them on the road, they're great while you're using them, but as soon as you have to dip you are worse off.

And when there's nothing oncoming, or when you're off-road, a good set of bulbs and dedicated wiring to the lights is plenty bright enough.

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Originally Posted by TeamFA

This is why I don't run any spotlights or light bars... if you're using them on the road, they're great while you're using them, but as soon as you have to dip you are worse off.

And when there's nothing oncoming, or when you're off-road, a good set of bulbs and dedicated wiring to the lights is plenty bright enough.

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I think the standard low beams are now adequate to fill the gap! :) Having said that.. I understand and appreciate your point.

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Originally Posted by TeamFA

This is why I don't run any spotlights or light bars... if you're using them on the road, they're great while you're using them, but as soon as you have to dip you are worse off.

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I love this forum. We can all agree, or not. Having spent a good part of my 45 years with a Driver's Licence on the highways and bi-ways, I don't agree. I want the absolute best lights I can get for any situation. So, great high beams with switchable spotties. Switchable, because I won't always need them. Great low beams, something often overlooked, so that when I have to dip I can clearly pick up the roadside and delineators, so I don't run off. This is particularly important if the bloke coming the other way does not dip, something becoming increasingly more common. Great low beams so that I don't collide with a parked car or somesuch. Proper fog lights as well.

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Originally Posted by TeamFA

And when there's nothing oncoming, or when you're off-road, a good set of bulbs and dedicated wiring to the lights is plenty bright enough.

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This is where I use my light bar. It's mounted high, so not legal to use on the road, where it's useless anyway, but up there it shows up troughs, ditches, washaways, low hanging branches, and also spreads so I can see alternative tracks or wheel marks. It gives no real depth of field though.

There have been a few disagreements on this forum about LEDs. I an quite happy with my LED lights on my D1. It is never going to be a highway tourer, but in the high country it's lights [ LED headlights, LED spotties and LED lightbar on the roof rack] work just fine. The D2 has all incandescent, with IPA spotties (one throw, one spread) and Phillips 'hanged if I can remember right now' HP globes. The spotties give good warning of upcoming junctions, provided they are signed, they pick up animal eyes, and throw light beyond my brakes, which I need.

I agree with captain right foot and teamFA......

I'm currently doing lots of return trips Brisbane to Miles and back

I have been turning the FRYLYT's off at times as when the incoming traffic has powerful driving light we both drop early therefore driving on low beam for longer periods of time

I did an experiment awhile ago......when the other car/truck dropped lights I only turned off driving light....leaving hi-beam on giving me better light, than as we get closer I drop the hi-beam....worked well and didn't bother the on-coming traffic except once when I forgot to drop high beam.