Mine has done something that sounds very similar. Usually happens when I'm at elevation and the weather is a bit cooler. The turbo starts screaming. It sounds like a slipping belt.
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Mine has done something that sounds very similar. Usually happens when I'm at elevation and the weather is a bit cooler. The turbo starts screaming. It sounds like a slipping belt.
My tensioner pulley looks exactly like that as well. Is it normal to have it wear like that?
Hope so.....looks pretty much the same as mine tooQuote:
Originally Posted by portafilter
My car has been stuck at the dealer for 2 weeks now.
Running very bad when hot, after driving down the hwy for approx 20kms. Runs fine when cold.
Dealer on Friday advised me that the EGR was at fault, then they advised me that the car seems to have turbo probs..... We shalll wait and see what they come up with next week. Mine is also a 2009 model with approx 60K kms on the clock...
There is black soot at the back of the turbo and seems to be considerably more oxidation around the turbo.......
Car is 2 months out of warranty :(
Why did you go with that copper gasket?
@Tomo,
Is the soot around the Turbo manifold join? In answer to your question about the gasket, there has been issues with heavily worked pumas and transits suffering from warped turbo/exhaust flange manifolds. What happens is that as it begins to warp the gasket is blown out the gap causing the gases to escape into the engine bay. Signs for this happening are soot marks around the flange join and excessive turbo whistle. The ones I have seen are unfortunately on the underside of the flange, out of view, that is why I used a boroscope to check the manifolds for leaks. The cure for this fault in warranty is replacement of the exhaust manifold and turbo. Out of warranty, the easy fix is the annealed copper gasket which is malleable and fills the gap caused by the warping, that is why it is 3mm thick. Long term repair would be to have the turbo and exhaust manifolds machined flat and using the annealed gasket incase it warps again, though I have not heard of this happening again once the flanges are machined flat.
The paint stripping deflection pulley (No 11 in the below diagram), is a sealed bearing unit held in place by one bolt. It is under a lot of strain as the accessory belt force is from the one direction. Bearings will start to wear in the direction of pull and the first signs of this happening could be a whistle or the paint starting to be stripped due to the bearing freezing occasionally. When I had the accessory belt off, the bearing was not as tight as I would have liked when I was checking for wear. It is really easy to check as well, take some of the pressure off the accessory belt and check it as if you were testing for a worn wheel bearing. To release tension on the pulley tensioner ( No 9 in the below diagram), rotate it clockwise.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/07/1140.jpg
1 - Air conditioning compressor
2 - Deflection pulley
3 - Deflection pulley
4 - Vacuum pump
5 - Coolant pump
6 - Power steering pump
7 - Crankshaft pulley
8 - Engine cooling fan pulley
9 - Automatic tensioner
10 - Generator
11 - Deflection pulley
Brian.
Lorryman,
The black soot is near the actuator rod, but on the other side of the turbo I would take a photo and post up, however car at dealers, which is 300km away.
Thanks for your info on the copper gasket
It could be that the exhaust down pipe/cat join is causing the soot build up? Or the down pipe/cat has developed a hole and is leaking soot back up onto the turbo housing? The turbo joins the exhaust/cat pipe system by way of four nuts/studs and there is a gasket in there as well, it could be that is what has failed or the join has come loose and tightening the nuts may cure this? If you do try to tighten them, put some heat onto the nuts first to get them to expand slightly before tightening, otherwise you could shear the stud!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/07/878.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/07/879.jpg
If that is not the issue then I would order a new fitting kit and remove the turbo for a visual check. I would be looking for any cracks or holes in the Turbine housing etc. The turbine should spin freely and smoothly with no grittiness or grinding feel to it. I would also be looking for any damage to the turbine, pitting or bits missing! Also check that there is no excessive up and down movement from the turbo shaft.
Once you remove the Turbo heat shield it makes finding the source of the soot a little easier.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/07/880.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/07/881.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/07/882.jpg
The black streaks around the turbo flange are from my dirty oily fingers after running them up and down the join.
Just a thought and my tuppence worth, so if the turbo is at fault and needs replacing, then instead of paying over the odds from LR for a new one, why not get a Hybrid turbo instead for less money and more power?
Brian.
And if its not the turbo, get Hy-Brid anyway........:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Lorryman100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drover
Ordering mine at the end of the month. :twisted::D
This is quite an old thread to dig up but sounds exactly what I'm experiencing. 2010 2.4 Puma. Intermittent high pitch squeal when engine under 3/4-max throttle has developed after 120k kms. Gets worse after longer drive. I have a BAS remap which has the EGR closed off. I suppose I should put back the original MAP then see if it maybe by very slim chance the ECR, but I'm suspecting the turbo or manifold gasket. (Are these copper ones available in Oz?) Differential daignosis - belts, turbo, air box etc, gasket. ???