The others have already explained (grandchildren have used all my peak data allowance). However, to reiterate:-
You need to ensure that the suspension is at about the mid point of the movement, and that the bolts are carrying the load on the side rather than relying entirely on the clamping, which is only intended to prevent any movement rather than carry the static load. You do this by putting the load on the wheels and bouncing the vehicle up and down, or even going for a short drive, with the bolts loose. Then tighten them.
Tearing of bushes will only be caused by incorrect installation (can also be damaged by pressing in by the inner tube) or by excess movement from modified suspension, or poor quality material (or deterioration due to oil etc, although this is unusual, as is sunlight deterioration). Much more common, in my experience, is failure due to the inner tube not being clamped, eventually wearing through the side of the tube, and then rapidly destroying the rubber, by which time it has usually damaged both the bolt and the cheek pieces that clamp the inner tube, and of course steering or handling will have long been compromised.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
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98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
There is one thing I have learnt tho is when I used nolathain branded radius rod bushes at the diff end is DON'T mine inside of 12 months has made the inner holes out of round in the bush the steel tube Is fine so is the new bolts I fitted at the same time and I definitely don't have heaps of flex with standard springs and ome 2" shocks that are too short
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