will be doing the suspension in my 130 shortly and have checked out gwyns kits , just wanting info on road handling with the kit installed , looks like it will be perfect for bush work
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will be doing the suspension in my 130 shortly and have checked out gwyns kits , just wanting info on road handling with the kit installed , looks like it will be perfect for bush work
im running tough dog big bore 40mm adjustables in the front and back, ive got the heavy in the front and 500 kg con coil in the rear with 38mm front and rear coil spacers and a 2in drop top shock mount and the big one i do recomend for all lifted defenders is a 3 deg radis and trailing arms from terra firma, with that set up and no say bars in the rear im popping my rear coils out with the flex, and im trying and idea of dropping my rear say bar mount a further 40mm on the chassis, i hope this helps you
Well.... after a few emails to Gwyn Lewis it seems I'll be going with the apparent competition.... the terrafirma +2 Shock Turrets and Rear mounts.
I was hoping to support Gwyn but with 210gbp shipping for mounts and rear arms (no springs or shocks or front arms) just made things cheaper and easier in Oz, who would of thought:eek:
Also I'm sure better minds than mine have contemplated the rear arms, but,.........I was measuring the front radius arms against the rears. I get 40mm difference, with the front being longer. Has anyone just cut the extra mount from the front arms giving avery strong rear arm and then made new brackets for the A arm to bring the pinion angle back(or A arm Mod)? I havnt gone and measured the arc of travel but 40mm, on face value doesnt seem much to go back and would probably be less with a lift.
Thoughts?
cheers
Although not having a 130,I do have a 110 Defender,and have had the Gwyn Lewis mounts,towers and rear arms for a few years now,and I can say that they are well made,although they are not fancy or pretty looking,unlike the knockoff brands.The rear arms are the heaviest arms that I have come across anywhere,and would account for the high transport cost due to the weight.They are very heavy.Quote:
Originally Posted by wilga
Handling is really mute,as it will depend on the springs and shocks fitted,which will mainly effect handling.But if you do fit longer springs,then I suggest you do the mods to your swivel balls to account for the alteration to the geometry.
Unfortunately,the weight of the rear arms,which are the heaviest that I have seen,will be the main contributing factor in the high cost of shipping from the U.K. which is high anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by strangy
Goodluck with the knockoffs though.
Gwynn put me onto Gigglepin, suggesting they maybe able to provide his hardware with a better freight cost.
They haven't responded to my emails.
I know the rear arms and kit are reasonably heavy but, for hardware only, no springs or shocks, freight for these is more than I have been quoted for a complete engine and box from the UK. Also considering the freight for the Ashcroft gear which just arrived, I think the freight mob he is using are out to make an early retirement.
Oh well, I shall persist and see if I can get a better result.
Cheers
Are you suggesting getting some radius arms, cutting the front bush and curved part of arm off, then using the left over as a rea trailing arm?Quote:
Originally Posted by strangy
And you want to use the stock trailing arm chassis mount where it is, but making new brackets for the A arm to adjust pinion angle???
What are you trying to achieve?
YesQuote:
uninformed;1753745]Are you suggesting getting some radius arms, cutting the front bush and curved part of arm off, then using the left over as a rea trailing arm?
That was the original thought, as I have a spare set of front RA's I was hoping to achieve a viable (i.e free) alternative option for heavy duty rear arms. As the front RA's are pretty tuff compared to anything close to the original Rear Arms. Using an offset Castor Correction bush, Cranking the arm and an adaptor plate for the A frame chassis mount would be quick and easy to bring the pinion angle back to match the longer RA. Inclusive of a 2 inch lift the distance from chassis mount to diff mount would be around 20mm longer than the original. (dont hold me to precise calcs, it was just a tape measure and cardboard template)Quote:
And you want to use the stock trailing arm chassis mount where it is, but making new brackets for the A arm to adjust pinion angle???
What are you trying to achieve?
However....
Ive had a bit more time to look at the setup now and while it isnt too hard to do in reality it will be easier to just get some off the shelf heavy items.
As with most stuff I do, I throw ideas around until they become impractical from my own deductions or someone elses.:wacko:
cheers
Turn or grind the weld from the pin at the chassis end of the TA
Sleeve the TA with closest fit hollow bar
Sikaflex or plug weld bar
CHEAP!!!!!
I know someone will tut tut the grind or turn but I'm pretty sure
That part is superfluous to the integrity of the TA
(has been mentioned before)
Dc
I think you may be correct modman. They are friction welded, so a little different to conventional welding where the weld that is above the surface is reinforcing.