Vibration in my butt with Tom Wood's shaft :)

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Originally Posted by Dockstrada

Nah the reason I fitted the shaft was for the binding issue after fitting the +50 shocks .

Did you sort your issues ? who did you use ?

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I took it out to ken at ultimate suspension on the recommendation of a few people on here. He weighed each corner and fitted a suspension system to suit the truck weight and my needs. Now I must add that I pick it up today so I can't comment on it just yet however he has committed that if its not right he will keep working on it until I am happy as part of the price. He called the other day to say he wasn't happy with the sway bars so he is remaking them and to me that's service that you don't often see any more.

The puma's seem to be so sensitive, my old gq patrol got a 2" lift and larger Tyres the week I bought it and in the 8 years I owned it I never had a problem. I only put a 35mm lift onto the puma and its not been right since with vibration and binding on the shaft and sway bars to a thrown dc shaft.

There are a few people like drover who have managed to get it to work first time and there are some like me who have used the same lift and components and haven't.

I would recommend a balance and alignment anyway before you go too much further.


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Looking over some Pics last night , I noticed that I had tightened the M20 nut on the chassis side deeper on to the treads than from the standard arms.

So last night I crawled under the truck and backed the nut off until 2 threads from the end which moved the diff forward 15mm , The vibration is noticeably better almost gone.


I wonder if there is a measurement that needs to be adhered too in this area.

Just found this information re the M20 torque setting .

"Fit and tighten nut securing radius arm to

chassis member to 175 Nm, 130 lbf ft."

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dockstrada

Looking over some Pics last night , I noticed that I had tightened the M20 nut on the chassis side deeper on to the treads than from the standard arms.

So last night I crawled under the truck and backed the nut off until 2 threads from the end which moved the diff forward 15mm , The vibration is noticeably better almost gone.


I wonder if there is a measurement that needs to be adhered too in this area.

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There is a known problem that can occur with the Pumas,where the wheel base can be different from side to side,and SuperPro,on their website actually have spacers to rectify it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dockstrada

Looking over some Pics last night , I noticed that I had tightened the M20 nut on the chassis side deeper on to the treads than from the standard arms.

So last night I crawled under the truck and backed the nut off until 2 threads from the end which moved the diff forward 15mm , The vibration is noticeably better almost gone.


I wonder if there is a measurement that needs to be adhered too in this area.

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I think you have hit the nail on the head and found the cause,the cause being the angle of the front diff,causing compound angles at the pinion flange great enough to induce a vibration in the drive line.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dockstrada

Looking over some Pics last night , I noticed that I had tightened the M20 nut on the chassis side deeper on to the treads than from the standard arms.

So last night I crawled under the truck and backed the nut off until 2 threads from the end which moved the diff forward 15mm , The vibration is noticeably better almost gone.


I wonder if there is a measurement that needs to be adhered too in this area.

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Wow I must have had so fluked it:D. First go to......

Anyway glad to hear it is sorted.

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Drover

Wow I must have had so flunked it:D. First go to......

Anyway glad to hear it is sorted.

Cheers

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Well it's not sorted as the torque setting for the m20 is 175Nm which means that the nut is wound right up, and the vibration is back.

I did measure the diff for center today it is 20mm to the driver’s side which puts the shaft at a bit of compound angle. I have since bought a T/F adjustable panhard rod, Il get it fitted tomorrow and see what happens.

I’m also going to machine up some spacers to space the arms forward 12mm.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Drover

Wow I must have had so flunked it:D. First go to......

Anyway glad to hear it is sorted.

Cheers

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Hey drover what coils U running in the front and rear ?

Did you use a T/F adjustable phanard rod ?

What Brand coils and lift size please.

Hey Dock,

Front springs are Old Man Emu 767x +50mm
Shock + 50mm TF ProSport
TF 3 degree Caster Correction arms

Rear springs are TF Heavy Duty + 50mm (articulation is reasonable, but I need them for towing my off road van)
Shocks TF BigBores, standard length.
+ 50mm PloyAir - air bags
TF cranked rear trailing arms

Panard Rod and steering rods are all Heavy Duty TF.

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Drover

Hey Dock,

Front springs are Old Man Emu 767x +50mm
Shock + 50mm TF ProSport
TF 3 degree Caster Correction arms

Rear springs are TF Heavy Duty + 50mm (articulation is reasonable, but I need them for towing my off road van)
Shocks TF BigBores, standard length.
+ 50mm PloyAir - air bags
TF cranked rear trailing arms

Panard Rod and steering rods are all Heavy Duty TF.

Cheers

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Very similar to mine, so maybe my misalignment of the axel could be the missing link.

Il throw in the Panard Rod , let’s wait and see.


The only other difference is the +50 springs on the rear.

I also have a theory that maybe the rear springs although the rear sits visualy a little higher than the front aprox 15mm its still too low, which is causing the front to point skyward not visually just in geometry and adding extra shaft angle on the front shaft.

Like I said in one of my previous posts, once I added a 10mm spacer to the rear my initial vibration with the standard shaft disappeared.

Like in my previous pic of the cardan shaft it still has quite allot of angle.

The castor correction and the DBL cardan shaft have now increased the front shaft angle by rotating the diff down and moving the last top uni forward .

Which in my theory if I add extra lift to the rear it will decrease this angle
by alinging the T/C flange and the Diff flange faces .



Just a theory