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With the wheel off the ground, apply the foot brake with a stick or similar and try to rock the wheel to feel for king pin play. try it at several different degrees of steering lock. Also rock the wheel back and forth at different steering angles to check for looseness .
I highly doubt it Bill, it's a late model swivel housing as it doesn't have the drain or level plugs.Quote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
Good pickup on the chamfer. ;)
My county has 22mm hex head steering stop bolts. There'd be about 5mm contact against the chamfered flange. It must have a stepped shaft or else the shaft is enormous. Can upload photos if required.
You are probably correct Rick,but I wouldn't put it past LandRover to build some vehicles for the Colonies with left over obsolete components. They did it occasionally on Series vehicles.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
bill.
Here is a drawing cut from the 1984 LR workshop manual, which shows what seems to be a stepped bolt:Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh
Attachment 53137
You'll notice that the threaded portion is visibly thinner than the shaft below the bolt head. Maybe this little fella will sort out the bends.
Next time I'll try to insert the piccie so that it's visible in the thread....
I ordered some OEM bolts from my local LR mechanic. I didnt bother asking what the differences are of different steering stop bolts over the years as I figure this would just add to confusion. I just gave them "98 110 defender". I wanted to see what would be supplied.
Part# FTC 4111 (one of the ones TimNZ listed
Length: from underside of head is 55mm long, 10mm of smooth shank, standard M12 thread.
Hex size: 22mm (Bingo, we have a winner!!!)
I only just walked in the door and am yet to fit them, but Im thinking they are going to work. I will be setting them up, then cutting some ERW tube to fit tightly between underside of head and the swivel housing....
thanks for all the help.
PS while Im under there I will snap some pics for Bill to further discuss the top Bush/bearing set up....
so I finally got around to fitting these bolts (put off due to the fact I was going to fit crush tubes as well)......
using the new OEM 22mm hex head bolt, I fitted it, did some very slow speed steering to check lock adjustment, feel the inside tyre just start to rub the RA.
Yep, the bolt bent first try. I did not feel ANYTHING. (yes I was feeling for it) Again it skims across the outside edge of the swivel/axle flange.
I pulled this bolt out and fitted the other one, turned the wheel and could see there was no way, even with alinging it as per Rick's sugestion, that it was going to land on the corner with any amount of material.
I have no clue now???
Assuming you have checked the swivel bearings for excess play, that is very wierd Serg.Does it do it on both right and left hand sides?In addition to the chamfer, I wonder if the diameter or thickness of the swivel ball flanges are below spec? Can you and Ric measure them for comparison?
What size tyres and rim offset? If the tyre is touching the RA,maybe the panhard rod, due to suspension lift is pulling the axle offcenter and you aren't able to screw the stop bolt in far enough? I've got splinters under my fingernails from excess scratching of the old noggin.
Still reckon the bolt should make contact with the flange within the radius of the bolt shank, unlike on Rics example where the contact mark is outside the radius.
Bill.
i have seen them bent too, but not very common. late td5 i think 2002 on? and puma defers have a small plate bolted to the flange which may help prevent this, using the 2 bolts at the frnt of the flange as a mounting. The plate extends out over the edge of the flange, and is shaped slightly to ensure it doesn't kick the bolt head off to one side.
I am assuming that they did this to prevent bolt bending, as the turning circle is increased in these later models, and the bolts having to be unscrewed further to accomodate this means they will hit on a different angle and bend.
jc