Thread: Steering stop bolts

Originally Posted by wagoo

[snip]

Edit, I think your vehicle does have Railkos. A photo a little higher up of the upper part of the swivel assembly should confirm it.

I highly doubt it Bill, it's a late model swivel housing as it doesn't have the drain or level plugs.

Good pickup on the chamfer.

My county has 22mm hex head steering stop bolts. There'd be about 5mm contact against the chamfered flange. It must have a stepped shaft or else the shaft is enormous. Can upload photos if required.

Originally Posted by rick130

I highly doubt it Bill, it's a late model swivel housing as it doesn't have the drain or level plugs.

Good pickup on the chamfer.

You are probably correct Rick,but I wouldn't put it past LandRover to build some vehicles for the Colonies with left over obsolete components. They did it occasionally on Series vehicles.
bill.

Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh

My county has 22mm hex head steering stop bolts. There'd be about 5mm contact against the chamfered flange. It must have a stepped shaft or else the shaft is enormous. Can upload photos if required.

Here is a drawing cut from the 1984 LR workshop manual, which shows what seems to be a stepped bolt:

Attachment 53137

You'll notice that the threaded portion is visibly thinner than the shaft below the bolt head. Maybe this little fella will sort out the bends.

Next time I'll try to insert the piccie so that it's visible in the thread....

I ordered some OEM bolts from my local LR mechanic. I didnt bother asking what the differences are of different steering stop bolts over the years as I figure this would just add to confusion. I just gave them "98 110 defender". I wanted to see what would be supplied.

Part# FTC 4111 (one of the ones TimNZ listed

Length: from underside of head is 55mm long, 10mm of smooth shank, standard M12 thread.

Hex size: 22mm (Bingo, we have a winner!!!)

I only just walked in the door and am yet to fit them, but Im thinking they are going to work. I will be setting them up, then cutting some ERW tube to fit tightly between underside of head and the swivel housing....

thanks for all the help.

PS while Im under there I will snap some pics for Bill to further discuss the top Bush/bearing set up....

so I finally got around to fitting these bolts (put off due to the fact I was going to fit crush tubes as well)......

using the new OEM 22mm hex head bolt, I fitted it, did some very slow speed steering to check lock adjustment, feel the inside tyre just start to rub the RA.

Yep, the bolt bent first try. I did not feel ANYTHING. (yes I was feeling for it) Again it skims across the outside edge of the swivel/axle flange.

I pulled this bolt out and fitted the other one, turned the wheel and could see there was no way, even with alinging it as per Rick's sugestion, that it was going to land on the corner with any amount of material.

I have no clue now???

Assuming you have checked the swivel bearings for excess play, that is very wierd Serg.Does it do it on both right and left hand sides?In addition to the chamfer, I wonder if the diameter or thickness of the swivel ball flanges are below spec? Can you and Ric measure them for comparison?
What size tyres and rim offset? If the tyre is touching the RA,maybe the panhard rod, due to suspension lift is pulling the axle offcenter and you aren't able to screw the stop bolt in far enough? I've got splinters under my fingernails from excess scratching of the old noggin.
Still reckon the bolt should make contact with the flange within the radius of the bolt shank, unlike on Rics example where the contact mark is outside the radius.
Bill.