Wot he said... ^^^^
The salty conditions just eat the cars from the inside out. Then if you don't clean your chassis, the mud that gathers just soaks up the salt into the water and eats it away even faster... Including the brake lines!!!
M
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I do wonder why LR never ran with the galvanised chassis. If there was a box to tick on the order form, for gal chassis, bulk head, zinc doors it would be a no brainer for me.
You can order a car to what colour you want, why not go the next level of rust protection. LR must know most Defender owners are slow turnover, so it would not matter to sales really.
It's quite an easy task to have something Gal Coated prior to assembly, you'd think with the problems that have, it'd be a no brainer for them (LR). It may even help with alignment issues ;)
So is a good coating of something like Lanotec/Inox (?) the way to go? I'm certainly looking to keep mine for a very long time, and I'm hopeing I'll get my fair share of beach driving in :)
According to my ex-LRA engineer mate, the wax injection inside the chassis was pretty damned good back in the nineties, but that doesn't help the electrolysis between steel and aluminium or the bulkhead itself.
The Dinitrol Manic mentioned looks interesting.
I think I'll be chasing it up.
Great, something else for me to start worrying about before it even happens. What is going go to be better this Dinitrol stuff or Lanotec spray?
There is bloody dust coming in from every panel joint inside, the panel under second row seat leaks dust and when I pressure washed the truck it blew all the mud inside, there is obviously dry muck in between the panels and it also seems to be coming in from the rear wheel arch down inside the inside of the truck. Pic attached
Attachment 54835
What's the best way to clean this out and seal it up?
I was thinking of Sikaflexing the joints will this be a good option?
Also will this cause rust? The dust trapped between panels that is.
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Had my 300Tdi for 13 years and 300k including beach driving. Had a electronic rust preventer and after every trip washed down everything - get to know where all the traps are for mud etc in and around the chasis and wash it out. As a soil surveyor (dig lots of holes) I had to pressure wash after every job so as not to transport soil. So good maintenance and maybe an electronic rust thingy??? Worked for me, mine had no rust anywhere when I sold it.
I used Dinitrol 3125 in a spray can with an extension nozzle - great to work with!
I was in the UK at the time but there may be a product equally as good here in Aus, or can you get Dinitrol over here? You cant order pressurized cans from abroad :(
We use Tectyl,a Valvoline product,it seems to work well,is available at Autobarn,in 4litre tins.The spraycans are not very good,and expensive.
Ok I'm starting a thread on the electronic rust preventers.
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