OILS AIN'T OILS - R380

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Originally Posted by 460cixy

Off topic but how does the 85-140 stand up in an lt230 ?

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A few of us use 80W-140, or I was using a blend of 75W-90/80W-140 for a long time too.

A 75W-110 would be about ideal for the t/case I'd reckon, but only one company in Oz blends that viscosity (that I'm aware of) and the additive package doesn't tolerate water inclusion at all :(

IMO an 80W-140 is ideal for the Sals if you are running a thick cast or plate steel diff cover.
The Sals runs hot and if you are using a heavy diff cover you are substantially reducing heat transfer.

I realise heavier oils run hotter than lighter ones, but if you can't get the heat away you need the extra viscosity to combat the retained heat and subsequent oil thinning.

I'm all ready useing it in my diffs and swivels as I had a heap left over from my old patrol only thing I'm concerned about is the heavy oil in the transfer in Canberra winters but I guess it would come up to temp pretty quick

Motul Gear 300 in a competition oil, can be used in our humble car and changed as schedule?

I ask it because once I heard that all the competition oil in general are designed to say in grade for a short period and they have no additives. This include not only trasmission oil but also engine one, etc. So if we think that buying the ultmate copetition extreme oil for our car we are doing a good think we are wrong

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 460cixy

I'm all ready useing it in my diffs and swivels as I had a heap left over from my old patrol only thing I'm concerned about is the heavy oil in the transfer in Canberra winters but I guess it would come up to temp pretty quick

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Have a Patrol too so I wanted to standardise fluids and we have about the same winters as you, -6*, -7* isn't uncommon here overnight in the colder months.

The 80W-140 has never been a problem.

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Originally Posted by bismillah

Motul Gear 300 in a competition oil, can be used in our humble car and changed as schedule?

I ask it because once I heard that all the competition oil in general are designed to say in grade for a short period and they have no additives. This include not only trasmission oil but also engine one, etc. So if we think that buying the ultmate copetition extreme oil for our car we are doing a good think we are wrong

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Gear 300 is fine to use, the additive package Motul use is fine for 'normal' service intervals but I wouldn't go over 20,000km in an R380 gearbox anyway.

One of the reasons I like Gear 300 is that the Viscosity Index (VI) is extremely high, meaning that it is more fluid than Syntrans at 0*C yet has a higher viscosity @ 100*C.
I normally don't like high VI oils as they tend to shear rapidly in use, but the VII Motul use must be similar to the one Castrol in Germany developed a few years back that mimics a base oil yet acts as a VII.
Very trick.

Syntrans is past it's best at that 20,000km mark too, and yet it's fine in heavy truck transmissions such as Volvo up to 400,000km.




Some pure race engine oils have reduced/no detergency (although esters as used by Redline and Motul have a natural detergent action) to reduce the chances of the ash component creating a detonation problem during combustion.
Older mineral based race oils in particular were very heavily additised and the additives they had were 'used up' extremely quickly so shouldn't be used for normal service intervals.

Here in Australia Penrite is a very well known blender of high quality lubricants and one of their 'race' spec gear oils isn't really suitable for 4WD use even though it's a very good diff oil as the additive package is soluble in water, otherwise I'd use it.

Rick thanks for your input on this post
Just to clarify do you think its appropriate to use the following in a TD5 Defender diffs and transfer case
Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil

Sals or P38 style rear diff ?

If a Sals definitely, if a P38 style rear end a good 75W-90 front, rear and t/case, just to standardise fluids.

The Rover diffs don't get very hot at all and you might notice the increased drag with an 85W-140 oil, and I'd reckon you'd definitely see it on your mpg figures if you use it right through your drivetrain.

Having said that, I still average 11.5-11.8l/110km with mine and I'm running 255/85 MT's, loaded and with ladders on the roof, so the extra drag from the 80W-140 in the back diff and t/case isn't too onerous.

I still run Syntrax 75W-90 in the front diff as that's what I use in the GU's g/box and t/case.

While not recommended, what I've done sometimes is buy 4 litres of diff oil (80W-140) and use in the Sals and part fill the t/case, then use 2 litres of a 75W-90 oil from the same brand and family in the front diff and top the t/case off with it so you end up with a blend.

Mostly I have more than enough of the two viscosities as the Patrol demands xW-140 in the rear end and a 75W-90 in the g/box and t/case and xW-90 in the front diff

That's what I have in my diffs and knowing its ok for the Tbox it's going in there as well

When I had the t/case out @ 222,00km to do a clutch change the input gear splines looked new and all gears looked great.

Take into account that when I took delivery of the beast @ 76,000km the t/case oil was black and stunk from overheating it's not too bad. (different size tyres front and rear, plus I'm wondering how often the centre diff lock was used and this thing had a lot of off road use)

I'm up past 3000,000km now.

Rick it is a Salisbury rear