Rear Hub Removal

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Originally Posted by 460cixy

Late model just has a single lock nut arrangement I think there staked from memory I haven't done one in a long while

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This is correct. Td5's don't have 2 lock nuts. They have a spacer between the bearings to set the clearance, and one nut which is done up tight then staked.

You can swap to the earlier 2 locknut setup if you wish as the stubs axles are the same.

not very clear but does show it:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/01/1300.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Psimpson7

This is correct. Td5's don't have 2 lock nuts. They have a spacer between the bearings to set the clearance, and one nut which is done up tight then staked.

You can swap to the earlier 2 locknut setup if you wish as the stubs axles are the same.

not very clear but does show it:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/01/1300.jpg

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thanks pete, are these nuts a use once only?

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Originally Posted by weeds

i thought td5 should still have lock washers.....i doubt anybody would have modified the setup. i would have thought you would stil be running a slas diff

52mm from memory, if you have a landy repairer in cairns they should stock hub nut spanners, $10-$15 much cheaper than a socket

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2 1/16" actually, but 52 will do :p However, if it is on a Puma the "tin" tube spanner type may not be up to the 150 ft lbs torque required to "preload" , nor may they have the square drive needed for torque wrench.

Standard socket won't go over the axle, needs to be "deep"

I was lucky, club member had toolmaker "homemade" jobbie. Need to build my own.

Note that on Puma the Nut itself is staked, not the washer. Having recently done mine (last week) reckon nut can be used twice but needs to be replaced next time (with correct torque it goes back exactly the same place).

Cheers

RF

Rick, the tube type works fine up to 90lb/ft, and mines worked OK since my first Jeep in 1984. (yes, they use the same nut ;))

IIRC mines a 3/4" drive so I just use a 3/4" male/male square drive adapter and a socket on the tension wrench.

BTW, I'm guessing in theory you'd need a few spare shims with TD5's and TDCi's to set the pre-load correctly when changing wheel bearings or even to account for minor wear in the cone.

As we've discussed before, I like the old double nut/lock washer setup.

It's dead simple to get the pre-load right, wind the lock nut on, bend the lock washer and off you go.

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Originally Posted by rick130

Rick, the tube type works fine up to 90lb/ft, and mines worked OK since my first Jeep in 1984. (yes, they use the same nut ;))

IIRC mines a 3/4" drive so I just use a 3/4" male/male square drive adapter and a socket on the tension wrench.

BTW, I'm guessing in theory you'd need a few spare shims with TD5's and TDCi's to set the pre-load correctly when changing wheel bearings or even to account for minor wear in the cone.

As we've discussed before, I like the old double nut/lock washer setup.

It's dead simple to get the pre-load right, wind the lock nut on, bend the lock washer and off you go.

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I might be lucky, no shims! Might be different when I eventually have to change a/all the bearings out. That woudl possible be the time to double nutting it.

RF

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

BTW, I'm guessing in theory you'd need a few spare shims

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So call me pedantic for carrying these around :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/01/1279.jpg

(in the car, not on my person...)

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Originally Posted by TimNZ

So call me pedantic for carrying these around :)



(in the car, not on my person...)

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You're a pedant :D

At least you don't have them jammed in you pockets, that'd just be weird :p

Seems to me that the 'old' system is simpler, cheaper, has no 'specialised' parts and is a lot easier to fix on the road.

Is there any benefit with the 'new' system.?

Deano :)