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Thread: Possibly joining the Defender club, Clutch issues

  1. #1
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    Possibly joining the Defender club, Clutch issues

    Hi all,

    I'm new to the forum and considering purchasing a Defender. It is a 1996 300Tdi 130 Dual cab that belongs to my wife's grandfather. He's had it from new and looked after it pretty well but after moving to the city, he's got no real use for it now. It's done 240000 K's and starts and runs beautifully.

    I've had a good look underneath and the chassis and bulkhead are rust free, i know that these are the main problem areas as far as rust goes, but interested to know of any other problem areas. It also has a couple of small leaks, from the rocker cover gasket and the rear main seal but the oil level hasnt dropped significantly in the time i've had it. Could these be significant issues or are they fairly normal?

    Anyway, I've been test driving it for the last month and loving it, but the only hesitation I have is with the clutch.

    Over the last 3 weeks, the clutch has gone from feeling normal with a slight bit of free play,to now going to the floor with little resistance, and apart from the last couple of inches feels completely like freeplay. I've checked the fluid levels and topped it up, but it wasnt really down at all, and there are no visible leaks from either the master or slave cylinder. It's still drivable (barely), going up through the gears is easier than downshifting. (I havent driven it since the clutch got really bad.)

    I am ok on the tools, but dont really have the time or the expertise to do any serious work to it myself.

    I'd really appreciate any advice you could give me on possible causes for the clutch problems and any other general advice on the car.

    I have booked it in at a specialist Land Rover mechanic in Adelaide, Sovereign Auto Services, to have a look at the clutch and also give it a general look over.

    Thanks in advance.

    Sam

  2. #2
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    i have had the clutch fork fail twice........this is where the slave cylinder push rod wears out the seat of the fork and pushes through. if you are not losing brake fluid than this would be the short favourite

    its quite easy to remove the slave, if the push rod is not protruding from the housing than its gearbox out.....make sure they re-inforce the fork, some say it weekend the fork and won't do it but where i got mine done just before xmas they have had great success with beefing up the fork.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for that Kelvin,

    Do you have any idea of the sort of cost involved in getting that work done?

  4. #4
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    Possibly joining the Defender club, Clutch issues

    I doubt you'll get much change from 1500 plus parts. Or you could get some experience people from on here around, rip the motor out, swap the clutch and put it all back in again. Should be doable in a day with experiences hands on the job.

  5. #5
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    er, i cannot remember. i didn't get much change out of $2k but this included complete clutch, modified fork, brake vac pump and power steering hose.

  6. #6
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    Sam,
    it could also just be the plunger seal in the master cylinder starting to fail.

    It's the small seal that stops the fluid from going back into the reservoir when you press the pedal down.

    A seal kit is cheap as chips and not that much drama to fit.
    I would be checking that first.
    Start with the easiest and work your way in.

    Cheers,
    paul.
    Paul.

    77 series3 (sold)
    95 300Tdi Ute (sold)
    2003 XTREME Td5

    I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by harro View Post
    Sam,
    it could also just be the plunger seal in the master cylinder starting to fail.

    It's the small seal that stops the fluid from going back into the reservoir when you press the pedal down.

    A seal kit is cheap as chips and not that much drama to fit.
    I would be checking that first.
    Start with the easiest and work your way in.

    Cheers,
    paul.
    thats means whole brake pedal box is to come out....

    you can use a set of vice grips on the flex hose under the car that connect to the slave, clamp the hose and your pedal should be rock hard....pretty this would discount the master cylinder? could be wrong

  8. #8
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    thats means whole brake pedal box is to come out....

    you can use a set of vice grips on the flex hose under the car that connect to the slave, clamp the hose and your pedal should be rock hard....pretty this would discount the master cylinder? could be wrong
    Yes. That will differentiate between the two probable faults.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the advice guys. Might try the vicegrips. If it is the fork, that might be enough to turn me off. Don't have that kind of money handy I would have thought that if it was something breaking, like the fork, it would have gone suddenly from feeling normal to having no pressure. This did it bit by bit over 3 weeks.

  10. #10
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    I would start by replacing both hydraulic cylinders and flushing the fluid out.
    Even if there are no obvious external leaks, air can still be drawn in when the piston is released/ returning, causing the 'requiring a bleed' symptom.

    JC

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