Printable View
they are very tight......we used to use a 10 tonne hydraulic puller wound up as hard as possible......then had to give it a bit of persuasion with a big hammer....
used to pop off like a gunshot when it finally let go.....!
the puller im talking about was very similar to this.......... http://techno.com.my/online/index.ph...roducts_id=930
I seem to recall that when I had to do this someone recommended a two sledge hammer approach. Rest one on the opposite side - preferably a bigger one. and then give it a belt with the lighter one on the other side. The large one on the other side is to absorb some of the impact and avoids damaging the sector shaft. You are trying to get the drop arm mounting hole to deflect slightly which will cause it to move down the taper. I had a puller mounted and tightened as far as it would go then a couple of rather gentle smacks and it exploded off. Not sure how trustworthy that advice is though.
just a quick question, is the worn drop arm making horrible squeeking noises when turning the wheel, parking etc? As im about to do this job because of suspected drop arm being the cause. Want to make sure its definitely the cause!
No squeeking. I'm replacing it because it was flagged on a roadworthy. The only noticeable issue I have is vague steering, but play is probably in the joint and not in the splines of the arm - otherwise it wouldn't be so damn hard to get off! I have a new arm complete with the joint so I may as well change the whole thing - if possible!Quote:
Originally Posted by landcol
Ok yesterday I went to put all the steering linkages back on and had one last go with some heat and whacking. Sometimes leaving these things overnight brings success the next day... but no it didn't budge so its all back together now and I have moved onto other jobs.
I wont need the rover until April so I'm getting a few jobs done, taking off the wings, dropping the fuel tank and fixing the things I break along the way. When all done I may take up DT-P38's offer and borrow a puller and have another go or just book it in if reasonable price.
Thanks
As mentioned, you can replace the ball joint in situ.
Yeah i know, I should have just got a joint replacement kit but I thought the arm was worn because there is play between top of steering box and movement of the arm. It now looks like the play is in the box because the blasted arm is clearly fused solid. Anyway I have a new arm with joint so ideally I would like to put it on - but yes just moving the joint over is an option.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
Anyone else not receiving their reply notification via email? Mine stopped a few days ago. Nothing in my spam folders. All my subscriptions are still active.
Quote:
Originally Posted by manic
Same here, and bummer re the arm.
you can adjust up the free play if you know what you are doing.....there is an adjusting screw on top of the steering box......
but its not gonna help a worn ball joint.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by BilboBoggles
thats exactly how we used to do it.......with two hammers......
but never remove the nut till the arm is loose......just back it right off till the end of the threads.....this is for safety......so the arm cant fall on you.....
and also to prevent damage to the threads when.....err...if you miss with the hammer......