From new a winch is normally supplied with 100' of 9mm wire, this leaves the drum about 75% full. As you say the limiting factor is normally the tie bars.
If you remove the supplied wire you will normally be able to replace it with 110' of 11mm rope before you foul the tie bars.
The main point being that you don't normally loose rope length for extra diameter.
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Regards,
Jon
Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)
Any rope/cable that runs over a sheave/pulley or is used on a winch drum or Tirfor should have a wire strand centre core, the most common construction ropes in 4WD recovery equipment is 19/24 wires/strand and six strands around the outer and an extra 19/24 wires/strand in the middle, this is so the cable does not crush flat, like a 6 strand rope core cable would. General purpose cable has a rope core for flexiblity/lubrication, so only 6 strands with 19 or 24 wires in each strand.
The larger the dia. of a sheave pulley the less stress placed on the wire rope, I have only ever used my winch cable through a snatch block, to stabalise my self while driving out of a hole on a steep sideways slope. A mate ran the cable through the block, not knowing to run it with the lay of the rope and it broke a few wires and put permanent bends in my winch cable. I will post up some links for info Riggers guide and the Guttenberg book, otherwise I am going to wear out my fingers with all this typing.
Rope construction is described as first Wires, (19 or 24) then layed (left or right) into Strands, which in a winch rope are layed (left or Right) around a core strand of 19 or 24 wires, which gives you 7 Strands of 19/24 wires in ea. strand. It would be known as 7Strand, 19/24 IWRC. When you lay wire onto a drum it is coming off that drum in one direction, when passing through a pulley it is changing direction under load both sides, anyway give us a few minutes after I post and I will add the links for more detailed info, regards Frank.
http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/0/9/...-h/30983-h.htm
PS I don't know how to get the Rigging guide into the post, so if you wish to read it you will have to Google Workcover's Rigging Guide for yourselves.
It doesn't matter how you spool it on, it will deform whichever way, but it is not detrimental to the rope.
Crows Nesting it on the drum (cross hatch pattern) is sometimes considered better by te competition boys because the rope never gets crushed inbetween adjacent ropes windings and is arguably quicker to spool back on as you dont nee to be careful when winding back in. On the flip side, using the crows nest approach wastes a lot of drum capacity and shortens the amount of rope you can spool on, especially if you are using 11mm instead of 9mm.
Hth
J
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Regards,
Jon
Cross hatching Dyneema rope onto a winch is the most desireable. The reason being with a conventional spooling the Dyneema being so soft will wedge down into itself under load on the drum and then take all hell to spool out again!!Have had to hook onto a tree and reverse the quad to free it and that was on the quadbike after hauling a smallish strainer post!! So thats the main reason for cross hatching.
Cheers Scott
Hmm that swear filter is a funny little beast!![]()
Last edited by schuy1; 14th March 2013 at 08:03 AM. Reason: adding
Rather than start a new thread I have a similar question to the OP. I (we) can get Superwinch LP winches very cheap - the 8500lb and the 10000lb via Amazon. I don't want a discussion on hydraulic vs electric vs pto, nor am I interested to hear the perils of buying a cheap winch vs moderate vs expensive.
I would love to hear from you though if you the think the 8500lb winch (I have a pulley and I'm not worried about its diameter either) would be sufficient for 5 minutes of winching/year for my Defender 90 Puma.
Thank you
Bob
My Tdi has done everything asked with a Warn 8274 HM rated at 8500. Pat
Good to know. Hell for what I need incredible price under $400 NZD so tax free.
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